After visiting Madeira regularly in recent years, is is high time for me as fine-dining lover to give an update on the island’s impressive gourmet restaurant scene. While I already published an overview where to dine in style in Madeira in 2022, some changes have occurred in the meantime. To my astonishment, this landscape has seen quite many newcomers as of late. This concerns the high-end segment as well as the more moderately priced dining spots. Yet also most of the long-term players are still in the game and have even improved their proposal. Let us dive into the topic of where to go for best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants in Madeira without further ado.

Again as in 2022, I want to form categories. I start with top-tier places, continue with modern, more affordable ones before ending with rather traditional ones with a twist. In each section, I tackle the new restaurants first, then proceed to the longer-established. Furthermore, you also find out about some eateries with simple but good food and my plans for further explorations in Madeira’s fine-dining scene.

1. Top-tiers fine dining in Madeira

For an extended period of time, there were only two restaurants that could be associated with top gastronomy. Both are located at five-star hotels, and this in neighbouring ones. Then in 2023, the situation changed with the entrance of a newbie.

1.1. Restaurant Desarma at Hotel The Views Baía (1-star Michelin)

About

After the four-star hotel The Views Baía underwent some refurbishment works in 2021 and 2022, the project was crowned with the opening of a new dining spot on its rooftop in spring 2023. It was about Restaurant Desarma helmed by chef Octávio Freitas. The name means “disarms”. The chef, who was born in Madeira and never worked abroad, wants to disarm his guests not with weapons but with products, passion and technique. After being in business for one year only, the dining spot already got a Michelin star (in February 2024). And this without Octávio Freitas ever working in a starred restaurant. However, he can look back on a 25-year career in cooking, since 2009 as executive chef at the three hotels of The Views Group.

Not only the fast winning of this prestigious award is impressive, but also Restaurant Disarma’s setting. Upon arrival in the hotel, a member of staff picks you up at the reception and accompanies you to its premises. It is a thoroughly modern place with an open-plan layout where an extraordinary cooking block dominates. Eight guests can be seated at the counter clad in Breccia Pontificia marble.

Furthermore, there is quite a number of “regular” tables, from many of them you have fabulous views of Funchal.

What to expect at Restaurant Desarma?

I mentioned it, an (imaginary) battle awaits you here. The chef’s proposal is about flavors that disarm those who try them. And he is very passionate about his homeland, honoring the island and its products. All the while, Octávio Freitas describes his cuisine as simple. He values enhancing the natural quality of the ingredients.

On offer at Restaurant Desarma are three tasting menus: The Chef’s Counter with 12 Moments (9 Plans and 3 Improvisations) at 275€, The Chef’s Battle with 9 Moments at 225€ and Armed with Senses with 6 Moments at 195€. My husband and I decided on the whole she-bang as we wanted to have a seat at the counter.

And the experience was worth every single cent. The food stood out as intriguing, delicious and inventive.

At the same time, it instilled a sense of comfort too. I only wished we had not opted for the wine pairing. While the wines were formidable, it was way too much in terms of quantity (half glasses would have been enough). As to the staff, it was knowledgeable, smooth and engaging. They explained the offerings to us without becoming too lenghty. The pastry chef even demonstrated his craft in front of us. And it was great to watch the team in action. The eight chefs (one woman among them) appeared to work in harmony. However, we did not get many details because so much was happening all the time. It was a nonstop undertaking until the service of the hot dishes was finished.

1.2. Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro at Hotel The Cliff Bay (2-star Michelin)

About Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro

“The Golden Rooster” is the first restaurant that got a Michelin star in Madeira. That was back in 2009, the second followed in 2017. It is situated within the five-star hotel The Cliff Bay and has been run by French chef chef Benoît Sinthon since 2004. When he took over at the time, he changed the concept of this dining spot that had been serving Italian cuisine up to this point. From then on, he offered refined Mediterranean food. And he also included Madeiran dishes. Before, the chef had worked at a number of Michelin starred restaurants, in particular in France.

What to expect at Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro?

The chef revisits traditional Madeiran recipes and interprets them in a new way, using modern techniques and the freshest produce. Many of the ingredients are organic and come from the hotel group of PortoBay’s own garden.

As of late, only one tasting menu is available at Il Gallo d’Oro (8 dishes at 245€ and 11 at 295€). Previously, you could make your choice out of two ones. While the Terroir Experience particularly highlighted local dishes, the Il Gallo d’Oro Top Experience featured the best what the dining spot has to offer.

On our visits to Il Gallo d’Oro a few years back, it was still possible to get a menu priced under 200 € (165€ in 2021 and 195€ in 2022).

I personally think that the current price level at this restaurant is over the top. This is especially true for Madeiran standards as you usually do not have to break the bank to dine out here, also in style. I even consider the price range at Il Gallo d’Oro as similar as at comparable establishments in Zurich/Switzerland. While we liked what we got here on these two occasions, the food did not knock us off our feet. Everything was of high quality and immaculately prepared yet lacked that special something. And the portions were miniscule.

The setting here is nice. After passing the impressive wine cellar you come to a dining room that has been updated in an elegant style with modern touches not long ago. A special feature here are large picture windows and high ceilings.

Sadly, the servers are not all and always up to the level you expect from an establishment of this caliber. Especially towards the end of both our  dinners, there was the one or other service slip. As a consequence of the described issues, we did not revisit Il Gallo d’Oro on our last two stays in Madeira.

1.3. Restaurant William at Hotel Reid’s Palace (1-star Michelin)

About Restaurant William

William is the signature restaurant at the Reid’s Palace, Madeira’s grand old dame, opened in 1891 –

in case you want to know more about it, here is my correspondent post. The name is a tribute to William Reid, the Scottish man who built the legendary hotel. The dining spot does not have such a long history, it only dates back to 2015. At the time, the former chef, the Madeiran Luís Pestana, got his own place. Not long after, he gained a Michelin star and have kept it ever since. José Diogo Costa succeeded him in 2023. As his predecessor, he was born in Madeira. After working abroad for some time, he returned to his native island in order to tackle new challenges.

And the new chef was able to retain the Michelin star for Restaurant William! It is an elegant place with maybe the best views of Funchal.

What to expect at Restaurant William?

I can look back at two dinners at William. While one was in 2021 under the former chef, the other took place end of 2023. At that point of time, José Diogo Costa was already at the helm. And I must say that I liked the latter better. Both the service and the food were more convincing. However, that does not mean that the first dinner did not satisfy. Otherwise, I would have not returned (I did not know at the time of the dinner that the chef had changed).

You get at William the finest produce from Madeira, creatively prepared with a modern touch. On our occasion, we ordered the Signature Menu with six courses (including a small pre-dessert) costing 160€.

Nowadays, you can choose between two menus, William (5 courses at 190€) or Discovery (4 courses at 160€). All the dishes we had were perfectly made and attractively arranged. In particular the lobster was a treat!

And the staff did and said all the right things on this evening. Plus, we got a beautiful table just by the large picture windows allowing us to take in the fabulous views of Funchal.

I would return to Restaurant William in a heartbeat, not only because of the excellent dinner experience we had, but also due to its pricing, which I still find reasonable enough. We did not so on our last visit to this island. Yet that was only due to the fact that we had to try out two new addresses in our quest for the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira.

2. Modern fine dining in Madeira

The newbie here is something special because it is housed in a private home yet far from being amateurish. As to number two and three of this section, the players were already on my 2022 list. Yet there has been an expansion of their culinary offerings in the meantime.

2.1. Restaurant Gazebo (Michelin listed)

Well, as I have hinted, when dining here, you are at a personal home.

But do not worry, is is not about having a meal in someone’s living room. Instead, you are in the gazebo

of a beautiful quinta, a Madeiran estate, which is separated from the residential house. Your hosts are chef Filipe Janeiro and project manager Adrianne Zino, “the daughter of the house”. And the Gazebo is a professional restaurant where the chef – who first made a name for himself as private chef – does a brilliant job. On offer is a modern-style tasting menu, either in 6 or 9 courses (80/120€), prepared with local produce.

The couple started the business with a supper club – which still exist. In fall 2023, they launched their Gazebo Experience (regular restaurant). And less than one and a half year later, they already got a Michelin listing. Since then, prices have been considerably raised – on our dinner in mid-January 2025 the menus were still priced at 60/90€. Yet I think that was a real bargain at the time, now the pricing seems appropriate for what you get here. And this is a mouthwatering culinary experience

in nice surroundings with a perfect service. Plus, you can watch the chef – his team consists of 8 persons – in his open kitchen. On top of that, there is also an outdoor lounge where you can have an aperitif weather permitting.

2.2. Restaurants by PortoBay Hotels 

Since my 2022 overview on Madeira’s upscale dining-spot scene, the PortoBay Hotels have enlarged their gastronomic offer. And so they keep making a significant contribution to the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira They opened one more eatery focusing more on vegetable fare (Restaurant Horta) and made a change at their Avista Restaurant. While there was always an Asian part at Avista, they separated it more from its bigger sister of Avista Mediterranean and called it Avista Asia. While both share the same building at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay with unobstructed sea views – Avista means View – , their concept is different.

2.2.1. Restaurant Horta at Hotel Porto Mare (Michelin listed)

With the opening of Restaurant Horta in summer 2023 – the name means vegetable garden – , PortoBay Hotels ideally complemented their culinary offer. I regard their concept and implementation as compelling, especially because it is not too rigid. You find not only vegetarian dishes on the menu, but also fish, poultry and meat. Yet there is a strong focus on innovative and healthy food, albeit one that gives comfort too. And imagine, the dining spot under the lead of Santiago Anolles made it to the Michelin Guide in less than one year after the opening!

Ingredients are sourced from the hotel group of PortoBay’s own garden or from local farmers. I was fond of everything we had on our two dinners here (late 2023 and early 2025), which consisted of vegetarian starters,

fish mains and

(excellent) desserts.

The setting is casual, modern and stylish (huge wooden chairs and lots of cushions).

Plus, there is a terrace full of plants.

As to the location, it is in the “Hotel Zone” a bit out of the town center, yet not too far. The only thing that I think needs some improvement is the service, which I consider a bit too nonchalant.

2.2.2. Restaurant Avista at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay (Michelin listed)

Shortly after the opening of Restaurant Avista in late 2019, it got into the Michelin guide. And it still is. On offer here is contemporary Mediterranean food with a twist.

Many of the produce stems from the hotel’s own garden.

The chef here has been João Luz, and this since day one. And he does this job overviewed by two-Michelin star chef Benoît Sinthon.

I have dined at Restaurant Avista many times in my four stays at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay

– if you should be interested in this lodging, here is my post about it. And the experience here was always rewarding. While you get here not necessarily super-creative cuisine, everything I have had so far was well prepared and tasty. Concept wise think more of refined comfort food that can be shared too. On offer is an extensive menu where you choose between pasta, main courses with an integrated side dish or such ones where you add one from a list. And many of the main dishes come from the Josper grill.

As to the pricing, I consider it as reasonable.

There is also a tasting menu available. Unfortunately, you cannot choose the number of courses, but you have to go for all of the six courses (115€). The atmosphere at Avista is relaxed, the staff friendly and helpful. And you are seated either inside in some sort of a glass cube

or in the outside restaurant, both times with fabulous sea views.

2.2.3. Restaurant Avista Asia at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay (Michelin listed)

Avista Asia is a new addition to the Michelin guide (2025). Its premises are on the upper floor where you only can catch glimpses of the sea in the interiors. However, there is a (not so big) balcony where you are able to gaze out at the sea.

Chef Rui Pinto is at the helm at this eatery. As to the ambiance and the staff, they are comparable to those at the other Avista (Mediterranean concept). There is nothing to complain about.

When it comes to food, here is all about Asian fusion fare. You find dishes on the menu that are inspired by the Chinese, Japanese or Korean cuisine. I have dined here four times and it mostly met our expectations. Just as at the other Avista, the food is skillfully crafted without being overly imaginative – and it is adequately priced. Of course, the sushi

is not like in upscale spots in Japan – but where is it outside this country? You can opt for à la carte where you decide between sushi, “regular” main courses or premium ones (blue lobster or wagyu from Kagoshima). Alternatively, there is a range of tasting menus: Omakase (120€), 3-course Discovery Menu (72€), 5-course Nomad Menu (99€)

or 7-course Premium Menu (192€).

2.3. Restaurants by Chef Júlio Pereira 

When doing my last overview on Madeiran restaurants in 2022, Júlio Pereira had two of them, Kampo with a focus on meat and Akua with one on seafood. When the Spanish-born chef came to Madeira, he started in 2018 with Kampo and added Akua half a year later. In the meantime, he has been busy opening more dining spots. On the one hand, he took over Theo’s, a Portuguese restaurant founded in 1933 (March 2024). On the other hand, he opened a new one. This is about Yuki, an Izakaya, a Japanese bar (September 2024). And so Chef Júlio Pereira has become a big player in the field of best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira.

All his dining spots have a vibrant, relaxed feel and modern food offerings. And you get value for money here. I already have dined in two of his places, at Akua

and at Yuki.

2.3.1. Restaurant Akua by Júlio Pereira (Michelin listed)

Akua made it into the Michelin guide 2025 after being in business for five years! I find it well-deserved because this eatery is on the same level as the before mentioned Avista. You find on its menu almost only seafood, in all variations. For those who do not eat fish, there is also the one or other meat or vegetarian dish. My husband and I dined here on two occasions (in late 2021 and 2023) and chose the same main course, Creamy Carabinieri and Seafood Rice (2023: 69€ for two, now 72€). And both time it was formidable! Also the bread here is delicious.

In case you would like a tasting menu, there is one with six courses (2023: 96€, now 98€).

You can sit either at a few tables or at the counter on the ground floor.

There is also an upper floor with quite many tables, but I find it less attractive as downstairs. And there is a small outside restaurant too. The atmosphere (on the ground floor) is lively, loud, and there are also kitchen smells (as the chef work behind the counter). The staff is laid-back, pleasant and helpful. I could not dine here every evening as it is buzzing, but the one or other visit is just right and a rewarding thing to do!

2.3.2. Restaurant Yuki by Júlio Pereira

We had dinner at Yuki about three months after its opening. It was not super-busy on our evening in mid-January. As I mentioned above, it is an Izakaya, a casual Japanese eatery where you usually order small plates to share. According to Yuki’s website – Yuki translates to luck – , chef Júlio Pereira considered it as the logical consequence to open a Japanese place after taking so much inspiration from this cuisine for his first two projects, Kampo and Akua.

My husband and I quickly agreed on opting for the Kaiseki Menu (6 courses, 96€).

This in view of the menu that was a bit too extensive and too overwhelming for my taste. And it was a good choice as more or less all sections were covered. I especially liked the two first courses, Ussuzukuri Amberjack and Karachi Salmon. Yet everything was great! As to the sushi, it was westernized, as almost everywhere outside of Japan (see also Avista Asia). If you want to order à la carte, there are six sections to choose from: Sakizuke (starters), Tempura (fried), Ussuzukuri (thin fish slices), Sushi, Donburi (rice bowls), Robatayaki (barbecue). Since our dinner the offer has been thinned out a bit, which I find a good thing. And there is now an Omakase Menu (6 dishes at 100€) as well, yet I am not sure how it compares to the Kaiseki Menu we had.

In terms of ambiance, there is a counter behind which the chefs perform their craft – and where you also can have a seat.

From what I learned from our server, the head chef is not a Japanese but a Nepalese, but never mind. Otherwise, I found it quite stylish in here and pleasant too.

Staff was friendly, yet as I thought not very thorough when it comes to Japanese cuisine – yet the dining spot is still young.

3. Traditional fine dining in Madeira – with a twist

While there are lots of traditional dining spots in Madeira, I am not sure whether many among them also merit the label of fine dining. If you consult the Michelin Guide 2025 for Madeira, he lists two such restaurants (only one for Funchal). It is about Casal da Penha, a family-run restaurant serving simple Portuguese food. My husband and I dined here once in late December 2022 and were not overly enthusiastic about the experience. While we were warmly welcomed and enjoyed the bread, Bolo do Caco, the rest was nothing extraordinary.

In the Michelin Guide 2024, two more establishments were listed that have not found its way in it in the latest edition. It is about Armazém do Sal and Villa Cipriani. As to the former, we dined here twice (in late 2021 and early 2023) and liked the food, which is traditional with modern accents.

However, we were not so in favor of how the evening started. Both times, they ignored us for a while before they got in touch with us.

When it comes to Villa Cipriani, we also had dinner there twice, although the first visit dates back many years (in 2007). The second was in late 2021, where we were satisfied with the offered (upscale Italian food).

However, my sister in law – a true fine dining lover too – dined here recently and could not say a good word about it.

4. Simple but good restaurants in Madeira

For those who love the variety and look for the one or other simple but good restaurant, I have three recommendations. First, it is about 5 Sentidos, a small eatery where you get traditional flavors with modern touches.

When we first dined here end of 2022 it had been only open for six months. We had a fine meal here with excellent fish, and it was a bargain. One year later, the dining experience was again enjoyable, although I would recommend opting for fish

or braised meat as a main course, but not for their Veal Fillet. Clearly, their understanding of fillet differs from mine (tenderloin). Yet, 5 Sentidos is still worth a visit in search of a good meal.

Back in late 2021, I enjoyed a tasty yet simple dinner at Franco’s Corner.

And its Google reviews are still very good. Here they serve Mediterranean and traditional Portuguese food, sometimes with a twist.

Finally, on our most recent Madeira stay (January 2025), we made it to Chris’s Place.

It had been on our to-do-list for quite long, and my sister in law strongly endorsed it. My verdict is that the food (international cuisine) is solid without being exceptional.

Ironically, I found out later that Chris’s Place is no longer owned by Chris. So, obviously I have postponed my visit too long. Apparently, his ex-wife is now in charge.

5. Which fine-dining restaurants – that are new to me – are on my list for a next stay in Madeira?

My search for the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira never ends. So, I already have a to-do list for my next stay in Madeira (November 2025). The Michelin Guide 2025 for Madeira included two restaurants that were new to me. On the one hand, it is about Oxalis at Hotel Casa Velha do Palheiro.

From what I read, it was opened in September 2024. They renovated the existing dining spot and launched a new concept. Chef Gonçalo Bita Bota is in charge here, who has been working at this hotel since March 2022. Although the whole sounds interesting enough, I am not sure whether we will make it there as it is a bit out of town.

On the other hand, Michelin added one more eatery in Madeira to its guide, Audax. This time, it is a spot that is more conveniently located in Funchal’s “Hotel Zone”.

And the restaurant’s concept of a progressive Madeiran cuisine sounds really promising (bookable through TheFork). From what I found out on my research (there is no website), it has been open since April 2023. And young chef César Vieira joined the family project (Marisa Freitas as owner, son Diogo as manager) in September 2023.

Date of last visit: January 2025

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The post Where to go in Madeira for best (Michelin) fine dining first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to go in Madeira for best (Michelin) fine dining appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

When traveling the Peloponnese and using Athens’ airport, you cannot help but visiting Greece’s capital too. At least if you have not yet done it before, which was the case for my husband and me. So, we had scheduled a three-day city getaway in the capital after finishing our two-week journey in the southernmost part of the Greek mainland. After much time in the Greek countryside, we yearned the hustle of city life. Above all, we were looking forward to savoring one of the best hotels and some of the Michelin (starred) restaurants in Athens. While we had not eaten badly at all in the Peloponnese, we were more than ready for a change. We had booked three Michelin dining spots, one of them a starred one, close to where we were lodging. And this was at a newer luxury hotel opposite the Old Parliament. Find in the following all the details of our Athens stay.

Before delving into this topic, first a few lines to our Peloponnese trip.

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese in style

The Peloponnese Peninsula, just south-west of Athens, extends from Greece’s mainland like an outstretched hand. We traveled four of its fingers and its palm. A three-part mini-series goes into the different areas. The route is indicated on my Google Map below:

Part one of this series starts with an overview of the whole journey, followed by detailed reports. We began our round trip on its “Thumb” (around Nafplio, part one) before continuing to the “East Finger” (Monemvasia and surroundings, part two). Next was the “Middle Finger” (Mani, part two). Before heading to the “Peloponnese Palm” (Olympia and Arcadia, part three), we explored the “West Finger” (Messenia, part three). All the while, we tried to stay at upscale hotels and eat at fine-dining restaurants, which was not easy. First, they are not really plentiful. Second, our timing was not ideal (late October/early November). Many establishments had already closed for the season. Yet, we managed properly enough. I also included some information about what to do everywhere we were in my reporting.

But now to the capital, where staying and dining in style most probably is never an issue. When looking for lodging and dining in Athens, we had a luxury hotel and Michelin (starred) restaurants in mind. They should be among the best in town yet worth the money spent on them. Find all the corresponding details hereafter – but nothing about things to do in Greece’s capital – such information is already abundant on the internet.

Which luxury hotel to choose in Athens

As my husband and I wanted to explore Athens by foot, we had been looking for a centrally located upscale hotel. As some more known establishments in the heart of Greece’s capital came with rather hefty price tags, we widened our search on smaller lodgings. And when I discovered Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, I found it to be the perfect choice for the two of us. Read on to learn why.

Hotel Xenodocheio Milos Athens’ back story

The hotel is named for chef Costas Spiliadis’s restaurants called Estiatorio Milos found in over ten locations all over the world. He has made a name for himself for his refined yet unpretentious approach to Greek cuisine, offering fresh Mediterranean fish and seafood.

With his first hotel carrying the Milos brand name he also entered the hotel industry. And he chose a similar way as with his restaurants, meaning to create a lodging that is upscale yet understated. With his first hotel project he wants to hold up the mottos of “philoxenia” (“friend to a stranger”) and to “xenodocheio” (“make a stranger feel at home”).

Location of Xenodocheio Milos Athens, one of the best hotels in town

In my view, Hotel Xenodocheio Milos in the Commercial Triangle of Athens could not be more perfectly located! It is situated in the heart of downtown Athens opposite the Old Parliament House. Very close by you find the central Syntagma Square, the National Gardens and the city’s chicest shopping street. Many popular neighbourhoods are in its immediate proximity: Plaka, one of Athens’ oldest,

Psyrri, the creative center, or the glitzy Kolonaki. Plus, there is an abundance of fine restaurants nearby. And the Acropolis is easily accessible from Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, though not exactly next door.

Ambiance/Staff

The building that has housed Xenodocheio Milos since January 2022 embodies the grandeur of Athens’ history. It is a stunning neo-classical building, established in 1880. In 1979, the Greek Ministry of Culture even proclaimed it as “designated landmark building”.

Yet also the interiors are persuasive. It spans over five floors and private balconies. On the ground floor, Restaurant Estiatorio Milos with a bar

take up the most space. It really is a dream of white marble, light-colored wood and smooth leather. And it comes with a nod to the nautical world (some kind of fishing nets on the ceiling).

There is little room left for the reception area, which is staffed by very accommodating and helpful employees. Service was provided with the signature warmth that we experienced throughout the hotel.

Rooms at Xenodocheio Milos Athens

Out of the 42 rooms at Xenodocheio Milos we chose the Executive Junior Suite (42-46sqm, 542€ with breakfast). While some rooms of other categories have views of the Old Parliament Hill, this is not so for the Executive Junior Suites. They are in the corner of the hotel overlooking an arcade and some rather ugly office buildings. Our accommodation was spacious and elongated with only one not so big window, which made it a bit dark. Yet it is a historical building, still I wish that the lighting system had been better (some lamps are connected).

Otherwise, we were fond of our room, which was sleek and minimalist. Design wise, I especially liked the headboard and the desk, which were curvy. From what understand, they echoes the movement of the wind through inflated sails, another nautical nod. The room features a rather large table, so in-room dining would have been a good option. The bathroom was spacious and with white marble finishes.

We had booked the room with breakfast that was served in the above mentioned Restaurant Estiatorio Milos on the ground floor. We liked what we got, tasty Greek yoghurt with granola, a fruit and a cheese platter, a bread and pastry basket and local honey. The one thing  I found slightly disappointing was that we had exactly the same offerings – to the type of the pastry – on three consecutive days.

Facilities

I already mentioned the dining spot onsite several times, Restaurant Estiatorio Milos, serving upscale Greek seafood. My husband and I did not dine here, we only had breakfast. There were three reasons for this. First, we had enough of such food on our Peloponnese trip prior to the Athens stay. Second, dining at this restaurant comes with a high price tag. And third, it does not appear in the Michelin guide.

As to other facilities at Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, they are limited. You find here a small wellness and fitness suite. Yet who needs more when being on a city trip?

In summary about one of the best hotels in Athens

I cannot imagine that there is a much better choice than Hotel Xenodocheio Milos in Athens when it comes to staying in style with an eye for value for money at the best possible location in town. And the building which houses the lodging is a historical gem. Its interiors come in minimalist decor with lots of white marble finishes both in the restaurant and the guest room’s bathrooms. Our room (Executive Junior Suite) was stylish and spacious, yet a bit on the dark side (only one window). Staff was always gracious and keen to help. The (seafood) restaurant onsite, Estiatorio Milos, is showy – much more than the reception. Yet you have to know that it is Costas Spiliadis’s baby, who has over ten dining spots of the same name all over the world. As to Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, it is his first foray into the hotel industry!

Dining in style in Athens

I mentioned it before, we dined at three Michelin (starred) restaurants on our Athens stay. As always when there is a huge selection of foodie spots to chose from, my husband and I opt for such ones that meet following criteria: among the best restaurants yet not costing the earth, near to our hotel, more on the modern side and getting good reviews.

1. Restaurant Mercerie (Michelin listed)

This relaxed yet chic dining spot is in the most beautiful pedestrian road that I came across in three days of exploring Athens! It is about Iraklidon Street, the beating heart of the Thissio neighborhood. The setting is perfect for an enjoyable meal either in the stylish outdoor area or in the interiors, which are nearly identical.

Mercerie is helmed by two female chefs – Melina Chomata and Maria Ntioudi -, with year-long experience at luxury hotels in Santorini. They perform in an open kitchen, allowing diners to watch the chefs at work.

On offer at Mercerie is international cuisine, sometimes more classy, other times more contemporary, yet often also with a Greek touch. You can choose among an à la carte menu, where you also find a “Raw”-section, and a 7-course tasting menu (on our visit 65€, now 70€). My husband and I opted for the latter, and we were delighted by what we got, which was equally fresh, light, creative, varied and tasty.

Service was pleasant and competent. The only negative point was that they only had paper napkins, what did not suit the character of this establishment.

2. Restaurant Nolan (Michelin Bib Gourmand)

Without being aware of it, Nolan was in its final stages as it was known on our dinner in November 2024. This was the last month of Sotiris Kontizas’ time at this casual fine dining outlet, which is in close proximity to the Syntagma Square.

The chef has Greek Japanese roots and served refined Greek-Asian fusion dishes at Nolan, meant to share,

and this as from 2016. From what I read this dining spot gained popularity very fast among Athens foodies. I can understand that well – other than the excellent food, the rates were reasonable, and the service was very good. While the news of the chef having left is a pity, it is not the end of Nolan.

The eatery’s website states that the collaboration with Sotiris Kontizas, also known as judge on Greek MasterChef, is finished. Since December 2024, Nolan has been aspiring to become a platform for experimentation, and this for talented chefs. At the same time, basic principles will be left unchanged. The start made Michalis Nourloglou, who seems to be experienced professional. Let us hope that Nolan 2.0 can build on the success of its previous achievements.

3. Restaurant CTC Urban Gastronomy (one Michelin starred), one of the best restaurants in Athens

CTC Urban Gastronomy, established 2015, moved some years ago into the up and coming neighborhood of Kerameikos, known for its vibrant nightlife. Chef Alexandros Tsiotinis did so because this opened up the possibility of setting up an outdoor area. And a wonderful urban garden has been created.

Soon after the move, the new place got a Michelin star. And the restaurants is also on the 50Best Discovery List by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

On offer here is modern Greek cuisine over 11 courses – called CTC Voyage, priced at 105€ -,

served in a contemporary setting. Everything we got was creative, delicious and memorable. A signature dish here is the octopus-shaped fava bean pannacotta glazed with octopus jelly.

Staff was courteous and competent. Dining at CTC Urban Gastronomy was definitely the highlight of all the meals we had on this Greece trip.

Before coming to an end of my Greece reporting, here are some more culinary tips for “connoisseurs” visiting Athens.

3 more culinary tips for Athens

Without much additional information, here are three addresses in Athens’ Commercial Triangle for people appreciating the finer things in life. It is about a bar, a patisserie and and an ice-cream parlor. As to the first mentioned one, I recommend Baba au Rum, a casual bar with creative drinks, nice staff and good music. This pleasant place even made it to The World’s 50 Best Bars list. When it comes to patisserie, maybe try out The Zillers Pastry Bar. While the place lacks organization, the pastries are delicious. And Georgios Platinos, working at one-star Michelin restaurant The Zillers, is responsible for them.

And last but not least, Oggi Athens features divine Italian ice-cream.

Looking back to a Peloponnese 14-day road trip & an Athens 3-day stay in style

In this very post (part four), it was all about an ideally situated luxury hotels in Greece’s capital and three great Michelin (starred) restaurants in close proximity. Part one to three concentrated on the main focus of the journey that my husband and I undertook in late October/early November 2024. And this was to the “Peloponnese Hand”, called like this because of the form of this southernmost part of mainland Greece. Part one was about an overview and the “Thumb” (Nafplio and surroundings). Part two showcased the “East Finger” (Monemvasia etcetera) and the “Middle Finger” (Mani). Finally, part three finally went into the “West Finger” (Messenia) and the “Palm” (Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia). Throughout my Peloponnese reporting, I informed about what to do in the respective places and where to go for upscale hotels and restaurants.

Date of visit: November 2024

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The post A short stay in Athens/Greece in style – PART IV end point of a Peloponnese trip first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post A short stay in Athens/Greece in style – PART IV, end point of a Peloponnese trip appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

This is part three of a voyage on the “Peloponnese Hand”. Let your left hand sink and then you have a map of Greece mainland’s southernmost area! I already went into the “Thumb” (around Nafplio, part one), the “East Finger” (around Monemvasia, part two) and the “Middle Finger” (Mani, part two). Now it is about the “Peloponnese West Finger” and the “Palm” (Olympia and Arcadia in the central Peloponnese). As in the past Peloponnese posts, I start some important sights including walking/hiking tips before informing about where to go for the best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the area. Before doing so, find below the itinerary of the whole trip, and this in the form of my Google Map. Then the before mentioned region will come into focus.

Hence, here is my Google Map of a 14-day road trip in the Peloponnese and a short stay in Athens. I did this journey with my husband, and it took place end of October and in the first half of November 2024.

My next and last post in this context (part four) will highlight Athens, Greece’s capital. While this city is not part of the Peloponnese, it is nearby. As to Athens, I will only cover our stay at a luxury hotel and our three dinners at Michelin (starred) restaurants. When it comes to what to do in Greece’s capital, the internet is full of such information (so you will not need my input neither). If you should be interested in some general information about coming to the Peloponnese in fall, check out the first part of my mini-series. Now finally to the region in question, the “Peloponnese West Finger” and the “Hand’s Palm” (Olympia and Arcadia). First to what to do here before going into the best hotels and restaurants in this Peloponnese area.

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part III, “Peloponnese West Finger & Palm”

1. “Peloponnese West Finger”

We had been looking in vain for an upscale hotel in the southern part of the “Peloponnese West Finger” that was still open at the beginning of November. So, we had settled for a lodging a bit more in the north. And this was Costa Navarino, a planned collection of high-end hotels and residences. On our way to this destination, we made a halt in the medieval ruins of Mystras. It is known as “The Wonder of Morea”, the medieval term for the Peloponnese. And it is a UNESCO World Heritage site too.

About the “Peloponnese West Finger”

As we only had one full day to explore Messinia, the “West Finger”, we limited ourselves to its west coast, south of Costa Navarino. From what I understand, there is more to discover, for example Ancient Messini, the Polylimnio Waterfalls or the town of Koroni in the Finger’s southeast.

As to the Messenian west coast, you should check out its probably most beautiful beach, the Voidokilia Beach. If you want to combine walking/hiking with beach bliss, why not drive to the Sykia Beach Passage. From here you can hike up to the Paleokastro Navarino Castle ruins. This place is said to have the best view of the above mentioned beach. And you can also hike down to it afterwards. We did not do this walk as the weather was not kind to us.

A possible next stop towards south is Pylos, the former Navarino,

a pleasant port town in the Navarino Bay.

Further south, you get to Methoni. Here you find a large and mighty castle, which might be worth visiting (we were too late to do so). The town of Methoni is quite cute. If you seek a walk in the area, my husband and I did one (from the castle to a church and back through town). Here is the link to this walk.

Our hotel: The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

I have briefly mentioned it above, my husband and I opted for a lodging of the Costa Navarino hotel and residence collection. This is actually a planned settlement, some kind of “hotel city”. You find here five accommodations with about 1,256 rooms, about 145 residences, 3 spas, 4 18-hole golf courses and over 40 restaurants. The founder is Vassilis C. Constantakopoulos (established in 2010), an extremely wealthy ship owner (about 58 ships). The whole facility is huge, it covers 1,000 hectares/2,471 acres! And it is divided into four parts (Navarino Dunes, Bay, Hills and Blue).

We had settled for The Westin Resort, as it was the only one that was open on the time of our booking. Upon arrival, we noticed that also The Romanos would have been an option (both part of Navarino Dunes). Anyway, although I liked the latter better (great bar, Anax Lounge), staying at the former was not a bad thing at all. Having said that, we do not like such large complexes in general. But, as mentioned, there were no luxury hotel alternatives in the area.

Out of the many room categories (445 rooms in total), we went for a Superior Infinity Room (49sqm, daily rate of 505€ with breakfast). It comes with a private pool, garden view and a spacious sitting area.

We felt well at ease here, and there was nothing to complain about. The breakfast buffet was vast and well-assorted. If you like it quiet and small but nice, then it is not your thing. When we walked around in the Navarino Dunes, we regularly got lost. The whole is complicated and confusing. Plus, we only stayed two nights, not enough to get accustomed to. Staff was alright so far, as you would expect it from such an establishment. And the setting by the sea is nice.

Our restaurants: Armyra at Costa Navarino & Notre Maison Gialova

Not that many restaurants were open at the beginning of November, both at Costa Navarino and outside this hotel complex. Out of the bookable eateries at Costa Navarino we opted for Armyra by Papaioannou. This is a seafood spot overseen by Giorgos Papaioannou who gained some celebrity in the area with his family’s fish restaurant in Piraeus, a port town within the Athens urban area. It was opened in 2015 and this on the grounds of Hotel The Romanos. And I am unsure whether you can book it if you do not stay at Costa Navarino (when booking we had to indicate our hotel reservation number).

Armyra is a casual fine dining spot where you take your meals al fresco only. On offer is primarily fresh fish and seafood, locally sourced. The setting is pleasant

and the staff is friendly and professional. As to the food, everything we had – among other a Garnished Crab Salad and Crayfish Pappardelle –

was very good. Yet the menu is expensive.

The latter does not apply to the other dining-spot we were in nearby Gialova. It is about Notre Maison, a family-led establishment on a seaside promenade. While the setting is rather simple

– often the case in Greece -, the food was quite good.

On offer is Greek cuisine with a modern touch here and there. The fish dishes we had were both well made and tasty. And we got free cheese and cake to start and end the meal! Staff is nice and knows its job.

2. “Peloponnese Palm”: Olympia & Arcadia

En route to Arcadia, the mountainous region in Peloponnese’s center, you absolutely should drive via Olympia, although it is a detour. The cradle of the Olympic Games is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. And it is the most significant sanctuary in Greece, dedicated to godfather Zeus. Must-do things here are the Archaeological Museum of Olympia (to view how it was at the time) and Ancient Olympia (to see what is left from this time).

The onward drive to Vytina in the highlands of Arcadia was not one of my favorite. While the mountainous landscape is picturesque, the roads are small and sloping. If you want to bypass them, maybe you should consider visiting Olympia before as a day trip from the “Peloponnese West Finger”. In such a way, you can get to Arcadia from the Peloponnese west coast via Megalopoli and Tripoli.

About Arcadia

My husband and I long had thought about whether we should go to Arcadia or not. We were late in the year (first half of November) to go to the mountainside, and we had feared that it would be cold there. While it was chilly in the morning, it became quite warm and pleasant during the day. And it was a great place to visit with its verdant forests, untouched villages and remote monasteries. Plus, there is the Menalon Trail, a long-distance hiking trail, where you can walk a portion of it. The best thing about this 75km/47mi-long 5-day trail is that you pass the most beautiful sights while walking it.

When it comes to things to do here, visit the mountain villages of Dimitsana, Stemnitsa

or Vytina. Then do not miss the Prodromos Monastery,

which can reached by a short walk (1.7km/1.1 mi in total, 30 minutes out and back, 190m/623ft altitude gain). Here is the link to it (one way only). Note that it is closed between 1 and 5pm, as most monasteries in the area. This walk is part of the first section of the Menalon Trail, leading from Stemnitsa to Dimitsana.

We did another sub-section of the Menalon Trail, No 4 from Elati to Vytina, starting from Highway E074. Find here the link to it. This hike follows the old mule track to Vytina along the Mylaon river and it is a rewarding thing to do.

Our hotel: Hotel Manna Arcadia

This five-star hotel in the enchanting virgin fir forests of Arcadia, opened 2023, is a true gem! It is housed in a former sanatorium, built in the late 1920s in the neoclassical style by a Swiss architect. After being abandoned for eight decades it was reborn in a nine-year renovation. The beautiful stone exteriors have been left as they were, yet the interiors are almost all new. The light-colored surfaces and wooden decor foster a serene ambiance, which suits the surrounding nature.

Out of the 32 rooms we opted for the Junior Suite (38 to 42sqm, 677€ per night with breakfast). It was a wonderful accommodation with a generous sitting area – however with one armchair only, we had to ask for one more -, a spacious bath and an oversized balcony.

Onsite you find a restaurant – see next section -, a bar

and a “wellness hub” – as they call it – with sauna, hammam, “cave” pool and fitness classes. Plus, they offer a (payable) activity program. Staff is friendly, accommodative and helpful.

Our restaurants: The Manna Restaurant at Hotel Manna & Taverna Vasilikos Arcadia

My husband and I dined twice at The Manna Restaurant at our hotel, which is overseen by chef Athinagoras Kostakos. He is one of the most well-known chefs in Greece with a big number of culinary projects all over the world. And he also was the winner of Top Chef, the Greek version of this reality TV series. The restaurant’s setting is nice

with an additional spacious outdoor area. The breakfast is fine with a buffet featuring lots of regional specialities and an à la carte menu for hot dishes.

As to dinner, you find modernised Greek food on the quite expansive menu. While dining here is costly, you can get away less expensive too. We enjoyed our meals, although it was not exactly gourmet fare. I very much liked the Welcome Treat with Bread & Dip. Also starters just as the Aubergine Salad or the Tomato Balls were good choices. For mains, we twice had dishes to share, once the Slow Cooked Lamb Shoulder and the other time a Half Grilled Chicken. Both were made in the charcoal oven and perfectly adequate.

The ice cream however was nothing special. Service wise there is nothing to complain about, we felt well looked after.

One night we headed to the nearby town of Valtesiniko to Taverna Vasilikos. Whereas this eatery is quite a looker,

at least for Greek standards, it is not so different from your typical Greek tavern in kind of ambiance. On request of our friendly server, we selected a table for the two of us. Our choice fell on one near the fireplace because it was freezing cold in here. Once settled, he covered the table with a paper tablecloth without much ado. At least, this was now a hygienic affair! From the extensive menu we chose five starters/salads to share. All were excellent, be it the Beetroot Salad or the Grilled Vegetable with Cheese.

As there were no desserts available, we left it at that. And we got away very inexpensively (42€).

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, II & IV)

This was the last part of three in total about a Peloponnese journey undertaken in late October/early November by my husband and me. We traveled the “Peloponnese Hand”, starting with the “Thumb” (Nafplio/Argolis, part I), continuing with the “East Finger” (around Monemvasia, part II) and the “Middle Finger” (Mani, part II) before ending in this post with the “West Finger” (Messenia, part III) and the “Palm” (Olympia/Arcadia, part III). In this mini-series I informed about what to and where to go for the best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants everywhere we went in the Peloponnese.

While we value staying and dining in style on our travels, this was a difficult thing to realize in this southernmost part of mainland Greece. That was due to two reasons. On the one hand, Greek people do not seem to be much into fine dining in the countryside. On the other hand, it was a matter of (bad) timing, as many establishments had already closed for the season. We tried to make the best of it, and it came out quite well, I must say!

There is one more blogpost to follow in my reporting in this regard. It is about a short stay in Athens, which was the end point of this voyage.

While Athens does not make part of the Peloponnese, it is close by, so it is a very manageable thing to do. Find out about where to go in Greece’s capital for a luxury hotel in the best location – so I think – and three of the many Michelin (starred) restaurants nearby.

Date of stay: November 2024

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The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART III “West Finger & Palm” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about two more “Fingers of the Peloponnese Hand”! In this context you have to be aware of the fact that this most southern part of mainland Greece is like a left hand directed downwards. In the paragraphs to be followed I go into the “East/Monemvasia Finger” and the “Middle/Mani Finger”. The “Peloponnese Hand” is where my husband and I went end of October last year. Traveling this Greek region steeped in history was a rewarding thing to do! And tourists at this time of the year were not plentiful. Find details of the whole trip in the next paragraph. After this, I will let you know what to do plus where to go for best hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants in the mentioned “Fingers”.

Before elaboration further, there is again my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary. It comes with all the upscale lodging we stayed and the (fine-dining) spots we ate.

Peloponnese & Athens in style, the itinerary overview

My travel report is split in four parts. My last post – part one – went into the trip outline, some general information and the first “Peloponnese Finger”, the “Thumb”. The latter is the region of Argolis with the town of Nafplio. Part two is the present one with the “East or Index Finger” and the “Mani or Middle Finger”. Region wise it concerns Laconia first of all. As to part three, the focus is on the “West or the Ring Finger”, the Messenia region, plus Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia region. And part four is about Athens.

While my husband and I did a road trip in the Peloponnese (part one to three), we were stationary in Athens. Throughout my reporting, you will learn about where to go for the best upscale hotels and restaurants. No easy thing in the Peloponnese I can tell you! However, in Athens, it went smoothly. Furthermore, I will let you know about some major sights everywhere we went (part one to three). In addition, you will also find some walking/hiking suggestions, as we like to explore the area on foot (part one to three).

From place to place in the Peloponnese, part II, “Peloponnese East & Mani Fingers”

1. “Peloponnese East Finger”

A good base on the “Peloponnese East Finger” is Monemvasia, a dramatic place just off the coast. When driving here from Nafplio, we did a stop in Tyros, a small, charming seaside town. It is great for a short walk along the beautiful pebbled beach. And Café Zorbas is good for a drink.

About the “Peloponnese East Finger”

Monemvasia

The absolute highlight on this “Finger” is Monemvasia, without any doubt. Nothing prepares you for the sight of this (almost) inhabited rock rising out of the sea. It is often compared to the Rock of Gibraltar, although it is only a fraction of its size. Yet it is still just as dramatic. Locals call this place “The Castle”, but it actually is a stunning fortified town. This medieval place comes with castle walls (lower town) and a fortress on the top (upper town). While the former is well-kept,

the latter is mostly in ruins, expect the Church of Hagia Sophia.

It is well worth climbing up to the upper town, not only to see the ruins but also for the views of the sea and the town of Gefira.

Find here the link to a hike leading around the rock and through both the upper and lower town. Recommended places for small bites in the area are Emvasis Café in the lower town and  Bakery Angelakos, south of Gefira.

Further activity “Peloponnese East Finger”

We did one more activity on the “Peloponnese East Finger”, and this was a walk/hike in its very south. It starts in a remote fishing village

leading along the beautiful coast. Nearby is also the Geopark of Agios Nikolaos, a petrified forest. While we did not have time to visit this attraction, it might be worth doing.

When being in the area and longing for fine pastry, head to Laconia’s capital, Neapoli Vion. Here you find several establishments offering such treats. My husband and I opted for this place and very much liked what we got!

Our hotel: Kinsterna Monemvasia, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese East Finger

Hotel Kinsterna is the only five-star accommodation far and wide. That is not all, it really is a dreamy property! This fort-like manor is perched up high on the hillside a short stretch down the coast from the Monemvasia Castle. It has origins dating back to the mid 17th century. When the current owners purchased the estate in 2002, it was in bad shape. Since 2006, it underwent renovations and reopened in 2010, restored to its former glory.

Out of the 52 rooms, my husband and I opted for a Premium Residence. These rooms offer much space (35-42sqm)

and come with a large terrace

as well as a marble bathroom.

Ours had a view of the gardens, which was nice. As to the decor, it was a lovely mix of traditional and modern elements. The one thing that we did not like so much was that the room was a bit dark. The daily rate amounted to 452€ with breakfast.

In terms of restaurants, there are two onsite. It is about the all-day Mouries and the Linos Tavern, which is only open seasonally (on certain days). We had dinner at the former once, but we did not return as the experience disappointed (mediocre food, inconsistent service). However, breakfast was a different affair with lots of choice and pleasant staff.

Otherwise, the facilities at Kinsterna are great. You find here two pools and an extensive activity program. And the staff was generally friendly and well trained.

Our restaurant: Athivoli Monemvasia, one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese East Finger

As we were not in favor of the restaurant at our hotel (see above), we dined elsewhere. And Athivoli,

a tavern on the coast south of the Monemvasia Castle, turned out to be a hit! On two occasions, it persuaded with well-made Greek cuisine that came with a modern twist now and then. I very much liked the starters just as fried local cheese (8€) or roasted aubergine (7€). Also the spinach salad was a good choice (10€). When it came to mains, we did not try out the meat dishes, but only had fish and seafood (15 to 18€). Yet these dishes were made with quality ingredients and immaculately prepared. And they were accompanied by original sides. The two desserts we had, Ekmek Kataifi (6€) and Lemon Pie(7€), were equally fine.

As to the setting, it was the most cultivated ambiance we encountered in a Greek tavern during our 17-day stay in this country. And the service was friendly and accommodating. We even got a gratis after-dinner liqueur on our second visit!

2. “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

On the transfer from the “East Finger” (Monemvasia) to Aeropoli and surroundings – where you find the most lodging options – , it makes sense to stop in Gythio, a picturesque coastal town. It is the capital of the so-called Lower Mani. If you have a sweet tooth, this patisserie makes heavenly pastries!

And also have a look at the Dimitrios Shipwreck on Valtaki Beach.

About the “Peloponnese Mani Finger”

Why Mani deserves a special mention

The “Mani Finger” is definitively something special! Whereas in other parts of the Peloponnese you find lovely landscapes with olive-studded hills and villages of golden stone, this is different in the Inner Mani (south of Areopoli). Both the land and people are austere. Stark, treeless mountain, stone fields and stone towers shape the landscape. Mani is home to the Maniots, known as fierce warriors, who used to fight seemingly endlessly about water and land. They built stone houses with castle-like towers, and this often in almost inaccessible hillsides.

It was not until the 1970s, when the national government reduced the local autonomy in Mani. From then on, new roads were constructed to bind all the towns to civilization. While this was the start to touristic development, mass tourism has not (yet) reached this part of the Peloponnese – and hopefully never will! For me, Mani is the most beautiful part we encountered here. It is different, wild, harsh, sometimes dismissive, but also authentic, relaxed and friendly.

What to do in (Inner) Mani

Touring the Mani villages

The unique combination of rugged landscapes, small villages with ancient tower houses (called pyrgospita) and remote, narrow beaches has its unique appeal. A good idea to get an impression of the Inner Mani is to go on a car tour. Here is a suggestion for a half- to full-day trip: Pirgos Dirou (Diros Caves) – Charouda (Temple of Taxiarchis) – Drialos (Church Agios Georgios) – Mezapos (Chalikia Beach) – Kato Gardenitsa (Church Naos tou Sotira) – Gerolimenas (beautiful coastal town, Restaurant Veludo, KaSeas Boutique Hotel) –

Vathia (tower houses) – Marmari Beach – Porto Kagio – Kokinogia (one-hour walk to Cape Tainaron Lighthouse) – drive back along the Mani east coast (towns with imposing tower houses: Lagia, Exo Nimfio and Flomochori / beach stops: Kokala Beach, Kontronas Beach).

Other things to do in Mani

We did not the above mentioned walk to Cape Tainaron but instead chose the one to Tigani Castle more northwest. And this was a rewarding thing to do! This estate in ruins sits on a spectacular peninsula that looks like a frying pan, which is actually its name in Greek. You have stunning views all the time, and you can roam around the ruins of a medieval fortress. Historians have varying opinions about this place (if it is the mysterious Grand Magne or something different). Anyway, it is fun exploring it a bit. Here is the link to this walk/hike, starting from the village of Agias Kiriakis. On your return, you could also do a detour to Church Panagia Agitria (maybe add another 50 minutes for walking).

Instead of making the above side trip, we shortly visited the village of Mezapos with its Chalikia Beach (see also above chapter). We had viewed it from Agios Kiriakis and wanted to see it up close. And we had two more places on our agenda which you should not miss on your Mani trip, Aeropoli

and Limeni.

he former is Mani’s capital and has a nice old town with its characteristic tower houses. Not far from it you find the port of Limeni, more a hamlet around an idyllic cove.

Our hotel: Aria Estate Mani, one of the best hotels on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

For quite some time we struggled to find a hotel to stay in style in the Inner Mani. As we were here at the beginning of November, many lodgings had already closed down for the season. Finally, we were fortunate to happen across Hotel Aria Estate! It is remotely situated on a hillside facing the sea, about 8 minutes by car either from Aeropoli and Limeni. What a gorgeous property it is! I was excited from the beginning when driving down the driveway.

And my enthusiasm lasted until our departure three nights later!

First of all, I adored the hotel’s fantastic setting and its tranquil vibe. Then I was fond of its layout and construction, an array of stone houses made in the typical Maniot architecture. It was built in 2018 and has 15 rooms. We opted for the top one-bedroom accommodation, the One Bedroom Superior Seaview Jacuzzi (48sqm, 340€ with breakfast per night). It is a dreamy place! It consists of a bedroom, a living room with a wet bar, a balcony and a terrace with a jacuzzi.

What a great thing to experience the sunset from here! I also liked the interiors, which are airy and all kept in bright colors. While the bathroom is not overly big, it was okay for the two of us.

The female hotel manager seemed to have a firm hand on the estate. She was always present to guide the staff (not all had a good command of English) and to take care of the guests. On site you also find two pools – one outdoor,

the other in the spa.

And there is a restaurant, more about it below.

Our restaurant: Horizon at Hotel Aria Estate Mani (Instagram), one of the best restaurants on the Peloponnese Mani Finger

It was impossible to find a similarly good dining spot as Restaurant Horizon at our hotel (see above) in the area. At least that was true at the beginning of November when some spots had already closed for the season. We dined here three times and found it to be one of the better eateries we had on our Peloponnese stay. And the (à la carte) breakfast at Horizon was definitely the best we experienced on our Greece journey (including Athens)!

On offer here is high-quality Mediterranean fare with a creative twist, here and there with a focus on local food. The dinner menu features starters just as sea bass carpaccio (15€) or local cheese croquettes (14€) and two salads (12€). For mains think of a regional chicken dish (18€) or shrimps with local pasta (20€). Desserts include their take of Bougatsa, a Greek custard pie, (10€) or more international choices just a chocolate mousse with ice cream (12€). When dining here three times in a row, there was enough variation in choices to prevent repetition.

The setting at Restaurant Horizon is nice with white linen-covered tables in the evening. Al fresco dining would have be an option on our stay, but we found it too chilly outside. And on one or two evenings, it also was quite cool inside as they let the entrance door as well as the terrace door open. Yet Horizon is not an exception in this regard, Greek people seem to love draughty restaurants … Staff was friendly and helpful but not always experienced, which however was not a major issue.

Looking forward and back to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (Part I, III & IV)

I started in the last post with an overview of the whole 17-day Peloponnese and Athens journey. In addition, i informed about some things to know when coming to this southernmost region of Greece, especially in fall. Plus, I began with part one of four in total, the “Peloponnese Thumb”, that is Nafplio and the Argolis region. As in all parts, I advised on some major sights including suggestions for walks/hikes. And as my husband and I look out for the best high-end hotels and restaurants everywhere we go, this topic is always covered in my reporting. Here in this very post, it was about the “Peloponnese East Finger” around Monemvasia and the “Peloponnese Middle or Mani Finger”. Part three will focus on the “Peloponnese West Finger” (Messenia)

and the mountain region of Arcadia.

Part four finally will go into a city-stay in Athens.

Date of stay: November 2024

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The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART II “East & Mani Fingers” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Seeking sun and warmth in Europe late October, my husband and I headed to the Peloponnese. We wanted to spend a fortnight in this most southern part of mainland Greece, followed by a three-day stay in Athens. Imagine it was our first visit to Greece ever. So far, we had thought it to be too touristy. Yet word had reached us that the Peloponnese with its wealth of historic treasures was not so, at least in fall. Thus, we set out to discover this piece of land. And it did not disappoint! While it was not always easy to find opportunities to stay and dine in style here, we managed somehow. Find out in my posts to come about our itinerary, what to do and where to go for best upscale hotels and restaurants in the Peloponnese. Of course, Athens is also part of my reporting – no problems here if you are looking to treat yourself! After outlining the whole trip in this post, I start with part one, the “Peloponnese Thumb”.

Before delving into the topic, first a few lines about the Peloponnese as a travel destination. And what to expect when vacationing here in fall.

Peloponnese as a travel destination

The southernmost region of Greece, less than an hour from Athens, is known for many things. It features not only untamed nature, pristine beaches and remarkable mountain peaks and villages, but also has an exceptionally rich history and culture. Think in this context of great archaeological sites just as Olympia or Epidaurus dating back to the ancient Greeks. Yet there is more, Greece also experienced the Byzantine era or a Venetian interlude. And it endured long periods of Ottoman rule too. All this thousands of years of civilisation left behind remnants in the Peloponnese ready to be explored!

Main sights: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”

Funnily enough, we all have a map of the Peloponnese. Just point your left hand to the ground, and there you have it. Your “Thumb” is Argolis with the beautiful town of Nafplio and Epidaurus. As to your “Index or East Finger”, it is where you find Monemvasia, a fortress town. Your “Middle Finger” is the Mani peninsula with its typical town houses and rugged nature. And your “Ring or West Finger” is the fertile Messenia with Kalamata, one of the bigger towns in the Peloponnese. As far as your small finger is concerned, it is beyond my knowledge where this is supposed to be. Finally, in your “Palm” lie Olympia, Sparta or Mystras, all historical sites, and the mountainous region of Arcadia.

When & how long to go to the Peloponnese

In terms of best travel time for the Peloponnese, April to June as well as September and October are good months. It is too hot in July and August, and high summer is the busiest season too. My husband and I went in the last days of October until mid November. The latter month is said to be often unstable weatherwise and is gradually getting worse. And I can confirm this. The first days were the warmest. The nights increasingly became colder, and the winds intensified. However, it was almost always sunny and warm enough in day time.

If you want to go to the Peloponnese in late fall, I suggest that you better chose the last two weeks in October. That comes with the additional benefit of more hotels still being open. And I find a fortnight the ideal period to explore Peloponnese’s main sights (the southern two thirds of the peninsula: “Fingers & Palm of the Peloponnese Hand”).

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese & 3 days (stationary) in Athens

Here is my Google Map of our Peloponnese and Athens itinerary complete with all the upscale hotels and (fine-dining) restaurants we were.

As to the Peloponnese part, it is about the best lodging we found and that was still open (many hotels close down for the season end of October). In terms of dining spots in the Peloponnese, you have to be aware that there is not much around that merits the name “fine dining” outside of cities and high-end hotels. So, I have included the best restaurants we encountered offering an overall good enough experience, especially food wise.

My husband and I flew into Athens, picked up a rental car and drove to our first destination, Nafplio (three nights). In case you only want to explore the Peloponnese without a (stationary) stay in Athens, there is also the option to fly into Kalamata (“West Finger”). After discovering “the Peloponnese Thumb” we drove on to Monemvasia, on the “Index or East Finger” (three nights). Next was the “Middle Finger” with the Mani peninsula (three nights). Our last stay by the Mediterranean coast was in Messenia, the “Peloponnese Ring or West Finger” (two nights) before heading inland. And this was to the mountainous Arcadia (three nights). When doing this we travelled via Olympia to get an impression of this extraordinary historic site.

Our last drive was from the Menalon highlands to the airport where we returned our car and grabbed a taxi to get to Athen’s downtown for a three-day city stay.

What is next in my Peloponnese & Athens reporting?

Now to some information about the individual stops on our Peloponnese itinerary. This includes a couple of sights and walking suggestions.  And you get details about where we stayed and dined, and this in style whenever possible. As to Athens, I only go into our luxury hotel and the three fine-dining restaurants we dined at. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in four parts. I start in this blogpost with part one that covers the “Peloponnese Thumb” (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). The next one will be about the “Index or East Finger” and the “Middle or Mani Finger”. As to part three, I will go into the “Ring or West Finger” and Arcadia. And finally, in one more post I will address Athens.

From place to place in the Peloponnese itinerary, part I, “Peloponnese Thumb”

Nafplio & Argolis

Here it is about one of the most worth seeing towns in the Peloponnese, Nafplio. Yet also the surrounding area, the Argolis peninsula, has much to offer.

About the “Peloponnese Thumb”

On your way from the Athens airport to Nafplio, where you absolutely should stay because of its beauty, you can make a stop in Corinth. If you have half an hour to spare, take a quick look at the impressive Corinth Canal. In case you have more time, why not visit the ancient Corinth (we did not).

As to Nafplio, this first capital of the modern Greek state is a true gem! I have read that it is like a bigger version of the Plaka in Athens (old town), only more beautiful. And there is some truth in it. Think of gorgeous cobbled streets, a wealth of Venetian architecture or charming squares of every size. In its core you find the Syntagma Square,

which is not only vast and striking yet even paved in marble. Furthermore, there are three forts, from which you should visit the Palamidi Fortress

in particular. Plus, there is a great hike leading via the Palamidi Path

to Nafplio’s south, and this until the path comes to an end. Here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

A must-do sight in Nafplio’s surround is the Epidaurus amphitheater, one of the best-preserved of Greece’s ancient sites, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. If you do a half-day trip, you can also visit a second such site, either Mycenae or Ancient Nemea. We opted for the lesser visited latter, which you could combine with a wine tasting in the area (we did not).

Our hotel: Navria Nafplio

When it comes to the best hotels in the “Peloponnese Thumb”, we did not look further than Nafplio. As this town is considered as its jewel, we absolutely wanted to stay here. There is the one or other luxury hotel in and around town, yet we did not think about choosing one of them. Either they do not get good reviews or are not in the historic old town. So, we opted for one of the many favourably rated boutique accommodations in town. In our case, it was Hotel Navria located on a small and relatively quiet square in the old town.

Right across the square there is its sister hotel, Aetoma, which also seems to be a good choice for demanding travelers. The lovely breakfast by the way, is available at Navria for both accommodations. And the two of them are only steps away from the bustling town center.

While Navria has modern interiors, its exteriors incorporate elements from the long gone by Ottoman period. As to rooms, six different ones are at your disposal. While many of them sound favourable, we went for the Suite. It features a balcony and a generous layout.

The bathroom is not big, but cleverly constructed with a pleasant walk-in shower and ample storage space.

Staff is extremely friendly and helpful, we felt very at ease here. And it was the least expensive room of our whole trip, it only cost us 165€ per night (with breakfast).

Our restaurants: Wild Duck, Valaora & Thyme, all in Nafplio

You have to know that Nafplio has lots of touristy restaurants, which are mostly traditional Greek taverns. Yet there are also some places which come close to what one understands under fine dining. This is especially true for Valaora, which is an upscale restaurant in a beautiful setting by the sea.

Also the service and the majority of our dishes, international food with a twist, were convincing.

When it came to our mains however, neither the Moussaka nor the Rooster Tortellini, both modern takes on the original receipts, were big throws. With the former, the aubergine was hardly recognizable and the meat subpar. As to the latter, the pasta dough was far too thick. And the prices were stiff compared to other restaurants in the area.

As to the second dining spot, Wild Duck served good contemporary creations

in pleasant surroundings.

Whereas I found the pricing okay, this was not so in terms of staff. When we showed up at the dining spot, they wanted to seat us outside, although we had a reservation – they did not ask about our preferences when we made it – and it was chilly. After lots of hesitation, they finally let us have seats inside.

Our third choice, Thyme, was the only one that was not in the town center but in Nafplio’s outskirts. We were nicely welcomed by the son, while his father is responsible for the kitchen. And the chef knows his job! There is only a small menu of European dishes with a contemporary touch, but everything we had was immaculately prepared and delicious.

Plus, it was good value for money. As to the ambiance, it was enjoyable with a modern flair.

Looking forth to road trip in the Peloponnese in style (part II to part IV)

After outlining a 14-day road trip itinerary in the Peloponnese and a three-day short stay in Athens, I went into part one of the voyage. That was about the “Peloponnese Thumb”, first of all the town of Nafplio (what to do and best hotels/restaurants). You have to know in this context that you have this southernmost piece of mainland Greece on your left hand. The next blogpost will be about two more of the “Peloponnese Fingers”. This is the “Index or East Finger” with the Monemvasia fortress

and the “Middle or Mani Finger”, which is a wild, rugged region. Part three covers the “Ring or West Finger”, Messenia, and the mountainous area of Arcadia, the “Peloponnese Palm”. Last, I inform about a city trip to Athens.

As far as the visit to Greece’s capital is concerned, my reporting will solely be about the luxury hotel we stayed and the three Michelin (starred) fine-dining restaurants we went. Regarding the others, I will let you know where to go for staying and dining in style (not always easy to find) but also what to do in the respective places. As my husband and I are avid walkers, I will provide some walking/hiking suggestions too.

Date of stay: November 2024

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The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART I outline & “Thumb” first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 14 days on the road in the Peloponnese/Greece and a short stay in Athens in style – PART I outline & “Thumb” appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART II Brittany (main destination) appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

A long held plan came true in late summer 2024, when my husband and I set off on an extended journey through France. Not that we have not travelled our beautiful neighboring country in the recent past, but mostly for a few days only. This time we wanted to do a longer trip to France, and this by car. Its main focus should be the Brittany. As we started from northwestern Switzerland, this meant that we had to build in at least one stopover. And the same is true for the way back. So in the end, a 19-day voyage resulted. Before arriving in the Brittany, we made two stops (Champagne & Normandy). The return way lead via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal/Auvergne. As always when traveling, we kept an eye out for best luxury hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants worth the money spent on them. Here in this post it is about part one, an outline of the the whole journey and the route to Brittany, leading to the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy.

Before coming to our 19-day itinerary for North and Central France in style, there is something else. It concerns the sort of content you may expect in this context.

What is next about the North & Central France journey in the time to come?

Actually, I wanted to provide quite a number of blogposts about our extended trip through France’s north and center. And they should follow right after this one outlining our itinerary. I used to to do this on my blog for many voyages in the past. This time, it will be a little bit different. This is because my husband and I already did another longer road trip in the meantime. It went to the Peloponnese and Athens in Greece. So, I want to keep my France travel recount shorter. That means to focus on the essentials such as what to do and where do go for best hotels and restaurants (part one: Champagne & Honfleur). I might pick out one or another topic and dwell on it later. Yet this would be after letting you know about our Greece journey just in the way I do it here for the North and Central France. It makes no sense for me to always fall behind with my trip reporting. And the next voyage is already approaching!

19 days on the road from Switzerland to Brittany and back with several before-and-after stops

It was not the first Brittany trip that my husband and I undertook this late summer. Back in the 90s, we already spent two weeks in the area. So, we decided to leave away most places that we went to at the time. This is true for some of the most visited spots too, Mont-Saint-Michel or Pointe du Raz. Notwithstanding, there are more than enough things to do. Here is my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

As mentioned, the journey’s first stop was in the Champagne region where we stayed in Épernay. From here, we continued to Honfleur in Normandy. Next was the first of three stays in Brittany. It took place in Dinard. Perros-Guirec, another town on France’s north coast followed. Then, we moved on to the country’s west coast, to Sainte-Marine/Combrit close to Quimper.

After leaving Brittany, we headed further south to Cognac, where the famous spirit of the same name comes from, a type of brandy made of grapes. The next stop was in the Dordogne (Vitrac), also known under its old name of Périgord. From here, we drove on to the Cantal department, which is located in the heart of France. Here we lodged at Chaudes-Aigues. Originally, we had planned one more stop in the French Jura. Yet we cancelled it at the last moment and directly returned to Switzerland from Cantal, which was quite a stretch to drive.

Now to some information about the individual stops on our North and Central France itinerary. This includes things to do with a couple of walking suggestions. And you learn about where to go for staying and dining in style. As there is quite a lot of material, I need to break my reporting down in three parts. I start in this blogpost with part one, the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy (best activities, hotels and restaurants). The next one will be about the Brittany and the third part about Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal.

From place to place in North & Central France, part I, Champagne & Normandy (best activities, hotels & restaurants)

1. Champagne Épernay

About the Champagne

Champagne is undoubtedly France’s most famous fizz, if not the world’s! This wine-making region is on Paris’ northeast side, with the towns of Reims and Épernay often used as a visitors’ base. For sure, you want to visit a Champagne House when being in the area, so book your slot in advance. If the question should arise which one to choose, this is difficult because there are numerous! My husband and I visited the biodynamic Leclerc Briant Champagne House because we stayed at their hotel, a family house in the middle of Épernay (see below).

While Reims is a bigger town (population of about 180,000), Épernay is much smaller (22,000 inhabitants). Both have their charms. Reims boasts a nice old town and a splendid cathedral. The special feature of Épernay is the Avenue de Champagne. It has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015. Here one Champagner House comes after another. And attached to them are bars and restaurants where you can taste the Houses’ finest cuvées, sometimes paired with culinary delicacies.

Our hotel: Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant Épernay

For our two-day stay in the Champagne, my husband and I chose Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant (Champagne House), opened in 2019. With its five rooms only, this former 18th century family home makes for an intimate stay. As it is located on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne, this luxury guest house comes with a Champagne shop and a terrace to try the House’s cuvées.

As to its interiors, it is a mix between old and new. Each room is different from each other. We opted for Room No. 3, which I personally find the best as it overlooks the (quiet) rear of the house with the garden. It is spacious (47 sqm), with a lovely seating area and quite a large bathroom.

And Le 25Bis by Leclerc Briant is a heaven for Champagne lovers! Not only were we treated a small bottle of their exquisite Champagne and cookies in our room, but we also got a glass of it every morning at breakfast! The room rate per night was 425€ (with breakfast), which we found adequate. A delightful little breakfast was included, prepared on site (behind the bar) by friendly staff.

Our restaurants: Bulles & Bonheur and Symbiose, both in Épernay

a) Bulles & Bonheur Épernay

I really wanted to have a dinner with a Champagne pairing and came across the Champagne producer of Élodie D. This is about a female wine growing business in the fourth generation. As to their restaurant, two tasting menus are on offer. The five-course Menu Élodie (wine grower) amounts to 70€ without and to 130€ with the Champagne pairing (5 glasses). Menu Fabrice (her husband), which we had, includes seven courses and costs 110€. Together with the Champagne pairing (five glasses) the total expense is 200€. As to the food, you get here immaculately prepared modern French cuisine, nicely presented, in pleasant surroundings.

Fabrice was present on our dinner and this together with a fifth generation member, the couple’s lovely daughter. She helped out with the service although being only about ten years old. And she did a good job just as the rest of the staff! In terms of Champagne, you get different cuvées of the Champagne Élodie D. and also old vintages of the Champagne Desbordes-Amiaud. We liked both of them, although the latter is a Champagne of a different kind. We found that it almost tasted like a port wine.

b) Symbiose Épernay

Symbiose is a small eatery in Épernay’s town center where Maxine Moret (chef) and his wife Justine (host) are in charge. On offer is a contemporary cuisine (Michelin listed). Although Justine was not present 0n our evening, we felt well cared for on our dinner. The modernly styled dining room feels pleasant.

In terms of food, there are three starters, two mains, cheese and two dessert available. Out of this offer, you can compose two menus (4-/5-course at 54/70€) or order à la carte. Everything we got – we opted for the 4-course version – was great! I liked it that the cuisine was not only modern but also light. Maybe the service was a bit slow-paced, but I think the chef was alone in the kitchen.

2. Honfleur Normandy

About Normandy

Normandy has lots to offer as to things to do. Its most popular attraction is of course the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. Although it is overrun by tourists, it is worth visiting. Another must-do is exploring the different landscapes along the Alabaster Coast. There is the GR21 hiking trail running all the way from Le Havre to Le Tréport. Its most beautiful part is probably around Étretat with its beautiful cliffs – unfortunately overtouristed too. And if you are a history buff, the D-day beaches might be your thing.

As my husband and I already visited the Mont-Saint-Michel Bay and Étretat on our first trip to Normandy, we limited ourselves on discovering Honfleur a bit more. We did so by making a hike around Honfleur, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

As to Honfleur, we already knew it. Therefore, we expected lots of tourists here. It was exactly like that, but understandable. The historic multi-store houses packed tight to each other around the Vieux Bassin (port) make a beautiful picture.

Yet a few steps further, and you are away from the masses!

Our hotel: Saint-Delis Honfleur 

Our hotel in Honfleur was Hotel Saint-Delis, opened 2020 in a 17th century former family home.

It is located in a beautiful residential neighborhood, very close to the town center.With its nine rooms only, this Relais & Châteaux property is very boutique. The elegantly furnished rooms come with steam showers and overlook a splendid garden.

We had booked a Deluxe Room (31 sqm, 599€ with breakfast per night), yet were upgraded to a Junior Suite (40 sqm). It was a duplex with ample space, which we liked (No 5). And this despite the fact that the A/C was a bit suboptimal.

You find no restaurant on site but there is a bar for hotel guests only. Here you get a lovely breakfast and snacks throughout the day, served by friendly and helpful staff.

Our restaurants: Huître Brûlée & Le Bréard, both in Honfleur

a) Huître Brûlée Honfleur

At the Michelin listed Huître Brûlée you get oysters – as its name suggests! But we chose other items from the small à la carte, which is reasonably priced. The cuisine at this lively, casual place is modern.

And and you get also lighter and healthy choices. At the helm at Huître Brûlée is a younger couple, Paul Lacheray in the kitchen and his partner, Chloé Woestelandt, in the dining room. Even though the staff was busy on our visit, it was cordial. We liked what we had for starters (all around 15€) and mains (from 22 to 30€). Instead of  going for cheese (5€), my husband and I had two desserts (10€ each). Yet the latter was too much, as especially the chocolate dessert was quite heavy (one dessert is probably sufficient).

b) Le Bréard Honfleur

This Michelin dining spot is the more sophisticated choice compared to its above mentioned competitor. What they have in common, is the modern food. Yet the decor here is chicer, the service more polished and the cuisine a touch more refined.

A younger couple is in charge as well, Fabrice Sébire in the kitchen and his wife Karine in the dining room (since 2004). On our evening, we could have a seat outdoors in the lovely courtyard. From the three menus (with options), we chose the middle (3-course menu 45€, 4-course menu 60€, 6-course menu 70€).

The service was professional and attentive. We found that Karine had an open eye for subtleties that others might overlook. And there were no issues with the pricing, which we considered as fair.

Looking forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part II & III)

That was the first part of a North and Central France trip my husband and I undertook lately. It showcased the itinerary from Switzerland – where we come from – to the Brittany. This is about the Champagne and Honfleur/Normandy, and I go into the best activities, hotels and restaurants here. The Brittany is the main focus of our journey and I deal with it in part two. Part three finally is about the return way, going from the Brittany via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal back to Switzerland.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – outline & PART I way to Brittany from Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – outline & PART I way to Brittany from Switzerland appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2025! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2025! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

There is no question that the main draw in Stresa is the visit to the Borromean Islands. Each of them has its own distinctive character and all three are only a quick boat ride away from Stresa. Yet there is more to do around this north Italian town not far from Switzerland. Find in the following some of the best activities around Stresa. Its location on Lake Maggiore, Italy’s second largest, contributes to the diversity of attractions. It is about sightseeing yet also about walking. While Stresa itself is not a large town, there are many more nearby worthwhile to be explored. And you can reach them not only by car but also by train and by boat. The latter due to the fact that most towns are situated directly on the lake.

Unfortunately, my husband and I only stayed four nights in Stresa, which was not nearly long enough to cover all the interesting activities here. So, I will not only report on what we did, but also provide a bucket list for more things to do. If you want to know about the town of Stresa, oozing lots of old-word charm, I wrote a short chapter about in my last post. Now to some of the best activities here. I start with walking/hiking and continue with other things to do.

3 of the best walks/hikes around Stresa

Before coming to three easy to moderate walks/hikes around Stresa, first a recommendation for a leisure stroll in town. As most other lakeside towns in Italy, Stresa features a lungolago. This translates into a lakeside promenade. You could start your passeggiata (afternoon stroll) either southeast or northwest from the town center. I lean towards the first, where you begin southeast from the ferry dock. The journey takes you past a couples of cafes and stately turn-of-the-century buildings. Furthermore, the 2 km (1.3 mi)-long lakeside promenade has lots of statues, fountains and flower beds. And always when gazing out on the lake, there is the beautiful Isola Bella too. To get started, make this easy activity as one of your first in Stresa to get your bearings!

Now to some more serious walks/hikes in the Stresa region. I start with the shortest one and end with one that I have not yet done.

1. Out and back around Villa Taranto in Verbania (easy walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (only one way – back – without botanical garden – Villa Taranto)

Pallanza – Via Vittorio Veneto – Villa Taranto – Via Vittorio Veneto – Pallanza

Duration: about 2 – 3 hours / Length: about  5.8 km (3.6 mi) / Ascent/Descent: less than 100 m (328 ft)

My husband and I wanted to combine the visit of the Villa Taranto botanical garden with a lakeside walk. So, this is basically another lungolago walk (just as the one mentioned above in Stresa) plus a stroll to criss cross Verbania’s beautiful botanical garden.

Tour description

We decided to start the walk in Verbania’s neighboring town, Pallanza. And we found that this place also has a remarkable historic center by the lake.

While the first part of the walk is along a street with moderate traffic, this is not for long. That is because the street quickly turns into some sort of shared bicycle and footpath with almost no cars around. It is along the lake with the one or other pretty turn-of-the-century building and splendid views over the water.

En route, a short stop at Parco di Villa Giulia

is worthwhile before continuing to Villa Taranto,

the actual destination of the the walk. Here, you can easily spend one to two hours to take in the botanical garden’s highlights. It features 7 km (4.3 mi) of paths with thousands of species of trees and flowers from all over the world. The way back to your starting point in Pallanza is the same you came.

2. Loop around Lake Mergozzo in Verbania (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive

Montorfano – Mergozzo – Montorfano

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 8 km (5 mi) – Ascent/Descent: 242 m (794 ft)

Lake Mergozzo is a small but charming lake, 15 minutes by car away from Stresa. It actually was the westernmost part of Lake Maggiore, some centuries ago. Nowadays, it is one of Italy’s cleanest lakes and barred to motorboats. You find here also the pretty town of Mergozzo.

Not only has it a lovely lakeside setting, but also a nice historic center. The tour I am going to describe is a circumnavigation of this lake, as I think one of the best activities around Stresa. And the town of Mergozzo, marking the halfway point, merits a visit by itself.

Tour description

The walk starts at a small beach called Spiaggia La Rustica, which is by the way a really nice bathing place.

Right before reaching it, there is a small number of parking spaces. Alternatively, you can leave your car at the nearby train station of Verbania Pallanza (so you can arrive by train too). The trail first leads through a wooded area

before coming to a campground, which you are allowed to traverse. Once done, there is a short stretch along the main road before you reach a trail up into the wood. Alternatively, you also could continue along the road. In the former case, the trail descends to the main road shortly before Mergozzo. Soon, you reach the town’s lungolago (lakeside promenade).

Be sure to check out this lovely town before taking up your way back to your start.

This time, you walk along an ancient mule track, which is mostly cobblestoned.

Shortly before the end of the walk, you come to an asphalt road. Turn left downhill to reach your starting point. You could also proceed uphill to get a look at Montorfano. This is a peaceful settlement with the remarkable Romanesque church of San Giovanni Battista.

Apparently, there is also a worthwhile viewpoint of Lake Maggiore a bit further up, but we missed it.

3. One way from Stresa to Belgirate via the Chestnut Trail (easy to moderate walk/hike)

Link to track on Outdooractive (not done)

Stresa – Villa Pallavicino – Passera – Belgirate (back by boat or train)

Duration: 2 – 3 hours / Length: 7.8 km (4.8 mi) / Ascent/Descent: 283 m (929 ft)

As I have not done this trail yet I cannot share insights from personal experience. But I saw it mentioned often on the internet, so I concluded it must be worthwhile doing. The Chestnut Trail connects Stresa with Belgirate via an ancient mule track, which is further up the hill. Yet it does not require a steep hike up. The trailhead to this path is even marked on Google Map (Inizio Sentiero dei Castagni Stresa). It is close to Parco Pallvicino (see below). Once arrived in Belgirate you can take the boat or the train to return to Stresa. I will not offer a tour description as I have not walked the trail.

After elaborating on walks in the Stresa area, now to less strenuous activities here.

Some of the best activities around Stresa

I start with a sight in the town of Stresa before going into the most popular thing to do in the area, just off the coast of Stresa. Of course, it is about the Borromean Islands.

1. Parco Pallavicino in Stresa

This is about the Villa Pallavicino, located on the outskirts of Stresa towards Belgirate. I have not been here yet, so the information provided is based on “hearsay”. You need about ten minutes by foot from Stresa’s ferry to reach Parco Pallavicino. The property was purchased by the Pallavicino family back in 1862, who transformed the simple dwelling standing here into a splendid neoclassical-style villa. They did this complete with creating a gorgeous park full of diverse plants and statues. In 1952 finally, Marquise Luisa, began to welcome animals from all over the world. And in 1956, the Pallavicino family transformed their estate into a zoo open to the public.

Nowadays, the park is home to over 50 species of animals, including zebras, wallabies or also native deer. In addition, there are a cafe and playground. The villa however is not open to the public. For sure, visiting Parco Pallavicino is one of the best activities in Stresa when traveling with kids.

2. The Borromean Islands, off the coast of Stresa

About the Borromean Islands

A boat trip to the Borromean Islands is a must-do activity when being in Stresa, also known as the “Eden of Italy”! It is about three idyllic islands: Isola Bella, the most notable, Isola Madre, the most peaceful, and Isola dei Pescatori, the busiest.

It is possible to visit all three islands by boat from Stresa’s ferry in one day. In case you can only go to one of them, choose Isola Bella, the masterpiece of the trio.

If you wish to omit one, I would leave out Isola dei Pescatori.

While they say you find here an old fishing village, unchanged by time, my husband and I judge it differently. We encountered mainly an island with only restaurants and souvenir shops.

About the Borromeo family

Now to what is behind the Borromean Islands. Originally, they were home to the aristocratic Borromeo family. They were merchants in San Miniato near Florence around 1300 and became bankers in Milan after 1370. Between the 14th and 17th century they were able to gain control of an “almost state” in the Valdossola/Lake Maggiore area within the Duchy of Milan. This “Borromeo’s State” ended in 1797 with Napoleon Bonaparte’s invasion. However, the family could keep their ample estates, one of them the Borromean Islands. And they still own the majority of them (Bella and Madre).

How to visit the Borromean Islands

When it comes to how to visit the Borromean Islands, I would suggest using Navigazione del Lago Maggiore (NLM), the official Italian state owned company. This because their boats run frequently and this also into the afternoon. Usually, in shoulder and high season, you have to wait not more than half an hour until a boat arrives (on a hop-on hop-off basis). You can buy tickets online or onsite inside the ferry building, either right before your trip or earlier (we bought them the previous day).

My favorite Borromeon Islands, Isola Bella & Isola Madre

Now some short words to Isola Bella and Isola Madre, my two favorites among the Borromean Islands. The former draws more people than the latter. And I already knew if from an earlier visit quite some years ago, undertaken from Ascona/Switzerland, which was quite a trip.

By no doubt, Isola Bella is the chef d’oeuvre of this trio.

There are a palace and a garden (one entrance fee for both) brought together in the form of an imaginary ship (Palazzo Borromeo). Originally, Isola Bella – named after Isabella, countess Borromeo – mostly was an empty rock. Vast quantities of soil were brought in to build a system of ten terraces for the garden. The unfinished building displays paintings and tapestries.

Isola Madre, the largest of the three islands, is also noted for its gardens.

They are kept as an English-style botanic garden with lots of rare plants and exotic flowers.

Yet the (uninhabited) palace is quite a sight too. It is beautifully decorated with 16th to 19th century Italian masterpieces and paintings.

After going into Stresa’s main sights, there is much more to do a bit further away.

3. Verbania with Villa Taranto and Villa Giulia

Verbania is the largest town on the lake and from what I heard – I have not been to the town center – not overrun by tourists.

As all the other lakeside towns on Lake Maggiore, it has its lungolago (lakeside promenade). Plus, there are the botanical garden of Villa Taranto and the country house of Villa Giulia (see above walk No 1). While the former persuades with its 3,000 plants from all over the world (villa is closed to the public), the latter can be visited on the occasion of exhibitions and other events.

4. Town hopping from Stresa

Apart from Verbania there are more towns you should not miss, so town hopping from Stresa is a recommended activity when staying here. And many can be reached both by boat and train. Unfortunately, my husband and I had only time to visit one of these places worthwhile seeing. It is about Sesto Calende,

where we stopped on our transfer from Alba to Stresa. It is right at the bottom of the lake, a pretty town where Lake Maggiore becomes the river Ticino. Not only boasts it an attractive historic center but there are also great lidos and lots of opportunities to walk along the water.

Further up the lake in the direction of Stresa, you come across Arona. It seems to be a quaint medieval town. You find here the bronze statue of Saint Carlo Borromeo (see above section about the Borromeo family), overlooking the town. Saint Carlo was the patriarch of the Borromeo presence in the area.

Right across the lake is Rocca di Angera, the Borromeo family’s imposing fortress. It is an impressive accumulation of five different constructions, built between the 11th and 17 the centuries. It is home of the 12-room Museo della Bambola with the Borromeo family’s collection of dolls. Plus, you can visit the vineyards that surround the fortress.

Another impressive sight is Santa Caterina del Sasso, a monastery located less than half an hour by car north from Rocca di Angera. The three buildings from the 13th and 14th centuries cling spectacularly to the steep rocky precipice. If you come by car, you either climb down more than 200 steps or use the lift (for a fee). When arriving by boat, you have to ascend 80 steps from the ferry quai.

Looking back at my Piedmont mini-series

This very post about what to do around Stresa is the last of seven posts concerning a Piedmont trip that my husband and I recently undertook. Before, I wrote about the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around this town on the Lake Maggiore in the Piedmont’s north. And the first blogpost gave details to the top luxury accommodation in this area close to Switzerland, Boutique Hotel Stresa.

I covered exactly the same three topics for another Piedmont region further south, the wine region around Alba (where to stay and dine in style and what to do). All this was introduced by a 11-day Piedmont itinerary that included not only the area around Alba and Stresa but also two stopovers. One of those was in Caluso, north of Turin, the other in the Swiss west.

Date of stay: July 2024

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The post Some of the best things to do around Stresa in the northern Piedmont/Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Some of the best things to do around Stresa in the northern Piedmont/Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.