After visiting Madeira regularly in recent years, is is high time for me as fine-dining lover to give an update on the island’s impressive gourmet restaurant scene. While I already published an overview where to dine in style in Madeira in 2022, some changes have occurred in the meantime. To my astonishment, this landscape has seen quite many newcomers as of late. This concerns the high-end segment as well as the more moderately priced dining spots. Yet also most of the long-term players are still in the game and have even improved their proposal. Let us dive into the topic of where to go for best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants in Madeira without further ado.

Again as in 2022, I want to form categories. I start with top-tier places, continue with modern, more affordable ones before ending with rather traditional ones with a twist. In each section, I tackle the new restaurants first, then proceed to the longer-established. Furthermore, you also find out about some eateries with simple but good food and my plans for further explorations in Madeira’s fine-dining scene.

1. Top-tiers fine dining in Madeira

For an extended period of time, there were only two restaurants that could be associated with top gastronomy. Both are located at five-star hotels, and this in neighbouring ones. Then in 2023, the situation changed with the entrance of a newbie.

1.1. Restaurant Desarma at Hotel The Views Baía (1-star Michelin)

About

After the four-star hotel The Views Baía underwent some refurbishment works in 2021 and 2022, the project was crowned with the opening of a new dining spot on its rooftop in spring 2023. It was about Restaurant Desarma helmed by chef Octávio Freitas. The name means “disarms”. The chef, who was born in Madeira and never worked abroad, wants to disarm his guests not with weapons but with products, passion and technique. After being in business for one year only, the dining spot already got a Michelin star (in February 2024). And this without Octávio Freitas ever working in a starred restaurant. However, he can look back on a 25-year career in cooking, since 2009 as executive chef at the three hotels of The Views Group.

Not only the fast winning of this prestigious award is impressive, but also Restaurant Disarma’s setting. Upon arrival in the hotel, a member of staff picks you up at the reception and accompanies you to its premises. It is a thoroughly modern place with an open-plan layout where an extraordinary cooking block dominates. Eight guests can be seated at the counter clad in Breccia Pontificia marble.

Furthermore, there is quite a number of “regular” tables, from many of them you have fabulous views of Funchal.

What to expect at Restaurant Desarma?

I mentioned it, an (imaginary) battle awaits you here. The chef’s proposal is about flavors that disarm those who try them. And he is very passionate about his homeland, honoring the island and its products. All the while, Octávio Freitas describes his cuisine as simple. He values enhancing the natural quality of the ingredients.

On offer at Restaurant Desarma are three tasting menus: The Chef’s Counter with 12 Moments (9 Plans and 3 Improvisations) at 275€, The Chef’s Battle with 9 Moments at 225€ and Armed with Senses with 6 Moments at 195€. My husband and I decided on the whole she-bang as we wanted to have a seat at the counter.

And the experience was worth every single cent. The food stood out as intriguing, delicious and inventive.

At the same time, it instilled a sense of comfort too. I only wished we had not opted for the wine pairing. While the wines were formidable, it was way too much in terms of quantity (half glasses would have been enough). As to the staff, it was knowledgeable, smooth and engaging. They explained the offerings to us without becoming too lenghty. The pastry chef even demonstrated his craft in front of us. And it was great to watch the team in action. The eight chefs (one woman among them) appeared to work in harmony. However, we did not get many details because so much was happening all the time. It was a nonstop undertaking until the service of the hot dishes was finished.

1.2. Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro at Hotel The Cliff Bay (2-star Michelin)

About Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro

“The Golden Rooster” is the first restaurant that got a Michelin star in Madeira. That was back in 2009, the second followed in 2017. It is situated within the five-star hotel The Cliff Bay and has been run by French chef chef Benoît Sinthon since 2004. When he took over at the time, he changed the concept of this dining spot that had been serving Italian cuisine up to this point. From then on, he offered refined Mediterranean food. And he also included Madeiran dishes. Before, the chef had worked at a number of Michelin starred restaurants, in particular in France.

What to expect at Restaurant Il Gallo d’Oro?

The chef revisits traditional Madeiran recipes and interprets them in a new way, using modern techniques and the freshest produce. Many of the ingredients are organic and come from the hotel group of PortoBay’s own garden.

As of late, only one tasting menu is available at Il Gallo d’Oro (8 dishes at 245€ and 11 at 295€). Previously, you could make your choice out of two ones. While the Terroir Experience particularly highlighted local dishes, the Il Gallo d’Oro Top Experience featured the best what the dining spot has to offer.

On our visits to Il Gallo d’Oro a few years back, it was still possible to get a menu priced under 200 € (165€ in 2021 and 195€ in 2022).

I personally think that the current price level at this restaurant is over the top. This is especially true for Madeiran standards as you usually do not have to break the bank to dine out here, also in style. I even consider the price range at Il Gallo d’Oro as similar as at comparable establishments in Zurich/Switzerland. While we liked what we got here on these two occasions, the food did not knock us off our feet. Everything was of high quality and immaculately prepared yet lacked that special something. And the portions were miniscule.

The setting here is nice. After passing the impressive wine cellar you come to a dining room that has been updated in an elegant style with modern touches not long ago. A special feature here are large picture windows and high ceilings.

Sadly, the servers are not all and always up to the level you expect from an establishment of this caliber. Especially towards the end of both our  dinners, there was the one or other service slip. As a consequence of the described issues, we did not revisit Il Gallo d’Oro on our last two stays in Madeira.

1.3. Restaurant William at Hotel Reid’s Palace (1-star Michelin)

About Restaurant William

William is the signature restaurant at the Reid’s Palace, Madeira’s grand old dame, opened in 1891 –

in case you want to know more about it, here is my correspondent post. The name is a tribute to William Reid, the Scottish man who built the legendary hotel. The dining spot does not have such a long history, it only dates back to 2015. At the time, the former chef, the Madeiran Luís Pestana, got his own place. Not long after, he gained a Michelin star and have kept it ever since. José Diogo Costa succeeded him in 2023. As his predecessor, he was born in Madeira. After working abroad for some time, he returned to his native island in order to tackle new challenges.

And the new chef was able to retain the Michelin star for Restaurant William! It is an elegant place with maybe the best views of Funchal.

What to expect at Restaurant William?

I can look back at two dinners at William. While one was in 2021 under the former chef, the other took place end of 2023. At that point of time, José Diogo Costa was already at the helm. And I must say that I liked the latter better. Both the service and the food were more convincing. However, that does not mean that the first dinner did not satisfy. Otherwise, I would have not returned (I did not know at the time of the dinner that the chef had changed).

You get at William the finest produce from Madeira, creatively prepared with a modern touch. On our occasion, we ordered the Signature Menu with six courses (including a small pre-dessert) costing 160€.

Nowadays, you can choose between two menus, William (5 courses at 190€) or Discovery (4 courses at 160€). All the dishes we had were perfectly made and attractively arranged. In particular the lobster was a treat!

And the staff did and said all the right things on this evening. Plus, we got a beautiful table just by the large picture windows allowing us to take in the fabulous views of Funchal.

I would return to Restaurant William in a heartbeat, not only because of the excellent dinner experience we had, but also due to its pricing, which I still find reasonable enough. We did not so on our last visit to this island. Yet that was only due to the fact that we had to try out two new addresses in our quest for the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira.

2. Modern fine dining in Madeira

The newbie here is something special because it is housed in a private home yet far from being amateurish. As to number two and three of this section, the players were already on my 2022 list. Yet there has been an expansion of their culinary offerings in the meantime.

2.1. Restaurant Gazebo (Michelin listed)

Well, as I have hinted, when dining here, you are at a personal home.

But do not worry, is is not about having a meal in someone’s living room. Instead, you are in the gazebo

of a beautiful quinta, a Madeiran estate, which is separated from the residential house. Your hosts are chef Filipe Janeiro and project manager Adrianne Zino, “the daughter of the house”. And the Gazebo is a professional restaurant where the chef – who first made a name for himself as private chef – does a brilliant job. On offer is a modern-style tasting menu, either in 6 or 9 courses (80/120€), prepared with local produce.

The couple started the business with a supper club – which still exist. In fall 2023, they launched their Gazebo Experience (regular restaurant). And less than one and a half year later, they already got a Michelin listing. Since then, prices have been considerably raised – on our dinner in mid-January 2025 the menus were still priced at 60/90€. Yet I think that was a real bargain at the time, now the pricing seems appropriate for what you get here. And this is a mouthwatering culinary experience

in nice surroundings with a perfect service. Plus, you can watch the chef – his team consists of 8 persons – in his open kitchen. On top of that, there is also an outdoor lounge where you can have an aperitif weather permitting.

2.2. Restaurants by PortoBay Hotels 

Since my 2022 overview on Madeira’s upscale dining-spot scene, the PortoBay Hotels have enlarged their gastronomic offer. And so they keep making a significant contribution to the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira They opened one more eatery focusing more on vegetable fare (Restaurant Horta) and made a change at their Avista Restaurant. While there was always an Asian part at Avista, they separated it more from its bigger sister of Avista Mediterranean and called it Avista Asia. While both share the same building at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay with unobstructed sea views – Avista means View – , their concept is different.

2.2.1. Restaurant Horta at Hotel Porto Mare (Michelin listed)

With the opening of Restaurant Horta in summer 2023 – the name means vegetable garden – , PortoBay Hotels ideally complemented their culinary offer. I regard their concept and implementation as compelling, especially because it is not too rigid. You find not only vegetarian dishes on the menu, but also fish, poultry and meat. Yet there is a strong focus on innovative and healthy food, albeit one that gives comfort too. And imagine, the dining spot under the lead of Santiago Anolles made it to the Michelin Guide in less than one year after the opening!

Ingredients are sourced from the hotel group of PortoBay’s own garden or from local farmers. I was fond of everything we had on our two dinners here (late 2023 and early 2025), which consisted of vegetarian starters,

fish mains and

(excellent) desserts.

The setting is casual, modern and stylish (huge wooden chairs and lots of cushions).

Plus, there is a terrace full of plants.

As to the location, it is in the “Hotel Zone” a bit out of the town center, yet not too far. The only thing that I think needs some improvement is the service, which I consider a bit too nonchalant.

2.2.2. Restaurant Avista at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay (Michelin listed)

Shortly after the opening of Restaurant Avista in late 2019, it got into the Michelin guide. And it still is. On offer here is contemporary Mediterranean food with a twist.

Many of the produce stems from the hotel’s own garden.

The chef here has been João Luz, and this since day one. And he does this job overviewed by two-Michelin star chef Benoît Sinthon.

I have dined at Restaurant Avista many times in my four stays at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay

– if you should be interested in this lodging, here is my post about it. And the experience here was always rewarding. While you get here not necessarily super-creative cuisine, everything I have had so far was well prepared and tasty. Concept wise think more of refined comfort food that can be shared too. On offer is an extensive menu where you choose between pasta, main courses with an integrated side dish or such ones where you add one from a list. And many of the main dishes come from the Josper grill.

As to the pricing, I consider it as reasonable.

There is also a tasting menu available. Unfortunately, you cannot choose the number of courses, but you have to go for all of the six courses (115€). The atmosphere at Avista is relaxed, the staff friendly and helpful. And you are seated either inside in some sort of a glass cube

or in the outside restaurant, both times with fabulous sea views.

2.2.3. Restaurant Avista Asia at Hotel Les Suites at the Cliff Bay (Michelin listed)

Avista Asia is a new addition to the Michelin guide (2025). Its premises are on the upper floor where you only can catch glimpses of the sea in the interiors. However, there is a (not so big) balcony where you are able to gaze out at the sea.

Chef Rui Pinto is at the helm at this eatery. As to the ambiance and the staff, they are comparable to those at the other Avista (Mediterranean concept). There is nothing to complain about.

When it comes to food, here is all about Asian fusion fare. You find dishes on the menu that are inspired by the Chinese, Japanese or Korean cuisine. I have dined here four times and it mostly met our expectations. Just as at the other Avista, the food is skillfully crafted without being overly imaginative – and it is adequately priced. Of course, the sushi

is not like in upscale spots in Japan – but where is it outside this country? You can opt for à la carte where you decide between sushi, “regular” main courses or premium ones (blue lobster or wagyu from Kagoshima). Alternatively, there is a range of tasting menus: Omakase (120€), 3-course Discovery Menu (72€), 5-course Nomad Menu (99€)

or 7-course Premium Menu (192€).

2.3. Restaurants by Chef Júlio Pereira 

When doing my last overview on Madeiran restaurants in 2022, Júlio Pereira had two of them, Kampo with a focus on meat and Akua with one on seafood. When the Spanish-born chef came to Madeira, he started in 2018 with Kampo and added Akua half a year later. In the meantime, he has been busy opening more dining spots. On the one hand, he took over Theo’s, a Portuguese restaurant founded in 1933 (March 2024). On the other hand, he opened a new one. This is about Yuki, an Izakaya, a Japanese bar (September 2024). And so Chef Júlio Pereira has become a big player in the field of best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira.

All his dining spots have a vibrant, relaxed feel and modern food offerings. And you get value for money here. I already have dined in two of his places, at Akua

and at Yuki.

2.3.1. Restaurant Akua by Júlio Pereira (Michelin listed)

Akua made it into the Michelin guide 2025 after being in business for five years! I find it well-deserved because this eatery is on the same level as the before mentioned Avista. You find on its menu almost only seafood, in all variations. For those who do not eat fish, there is also the one or other meat or vegetarian dish. My husband and I dined here on two occasions (in late 2021 and 2023) and chose the same main course, Creamy Carabinieri and Seafood Rice (2023: 69€ for two, now 72€). And both time it was formidable! Also the bread here is delicious.

In case you would like a tasting menu, there is one with six courses (2023: 96€, now 98€).

You can sit either at a few tables or at the counter on the ground floor.

There is also an upper floor with quite many tables, but I find it less attractive as downstairs. And there is a small outside restaurant too. The atmosphere (on the ground floor) is lively, loud, and there are also kitchen smells (as the chef work behind the counter). The staff is laid-back, pleasant and helpful. I could not dine here every evening as it is buzzing, but the one or other visit is just right and a rewarding thing to do!

2.3.2. Restaurant Yuki by Júlio Pereira

We had dinner at Yuki about three months after its opening. It was not super-busy on our evening in mid-January. As I mentioned above, it is an Izakaya, a casual Japanese eatery where you usually order small plates to share. According to Yuki’s website – Yuki translates to luck – , chef Júlio Pereira considered it as the logical consequence to open a Japanese place after taking so much inspiration from this cuisine for his first two projects, Kampo and Akua.

My husband and I quickly agreed on opting for the Kaiseki Menu (6 courses, 96€).

This in view of the menu that was a bit too extensive and too overwhelming for my taste. And it was a good choice as more or less all sections were covered. I especially liked the two first courses, Ussuzukuri Amberjack and Karachi Salmon. Yet everything was great! As to the sushi, it was westernized, as almost everywhere outside of Japan (see also Avista Asia). If you want to order à la carte, there are six sections to choose from: Sakizuke (starters), Tempura (fried), Ussuzukuri (thin fish slices), Sushi, Donburi (rice bowls), Robatayaki (barbecue). Since our dinner the offer has been thinned out a bit, which I find a good thing. And there is now an Omakase Menu (6 dishes at 100€) as well, yet I am not sure how it compares to the Kaiseki Menu we had.

In terms of ambiance, there is a counter behind which the chefs perform their craft – and where you also can have a seat.

From what I learned from our server, the head chef is not a Japanese but a Nepalese, but never mind. Otherwise, I found it quite stylish in here and pleasant too.

Staff was friendly, yet as I thought not very thorough when it comes to Japanese cuisine – yet the dining spot is still young.

3. Traditional fine dining in Madeira – with a twist

While there are lots of traditional dining spots in Madeira, I am not sure whether many among them also merit the label of fine dining. If you consult the Michelin Guide 2025 for Madeira, he lists two such restaurants (only one for Funchal). It is about Casal da Penha, a family-run restaurant serving simple Portuguese food. My husband and I dined here once in late December 2022 and were not overly enthusiastic about the experience. While we were warmly welcomed and enjoyed the bread, Bolo do Caco, the rest was nothing extraordinary.

In the Michelin Guide 2024, two more establishments were listed that have not found its way in it in the latest edition. It is about Armazém do Sal and Villa Cipriani. As to the former, we dined here twice (in late 2021 and early 2023) and liked the food, which is traditional with modern accents.

However, we were not so in favor of how the evening started. Both times, they ignored us for a while before they got in touch with us.

When it comes to Villa Cipriani, we also had dinner there twice, although the first visit dates back many years (in 2007). The second was in late 2021, where we were satisfied with the offered (upscale Italian food).

However, my sister in law – a true fine dining lover too – dined here recently and could not say a good word about it.

4. Simple but good restaurants in Madeira

For those who love the variety and look for the one or other simple but good restaurant, I have three recommendations. First, it is about 5 Sentidos, a small eatery where you get traditional flavors with modern touches.

When we first dined here end of 2022 it had been only open for six months. We had a fine meal here with excellent fish, and it was a bargain. One year later, the dining experience was again enjoyable, although I would recommend opting for fish

or braised meat as a main course, but not for their Veal Fillet. Clearly, their understanding of fillet differs from mine (tenderloin). Yet, 5 Sentidos is still worth a visit in search of a good meal.

Back in late 2021, I enjoyed a tasty yet simple dinner at Franco’s Corner.

And its Google reviews are still very good. Here they serve Mediterranean and traditional Portuguese food, sometimes with a twist.

Finally, on our most recent Madeira stay (January 2025), we made it to Chris’s Place.

It had been on our to-do-list for quite long, and my sister in law strongly endorsed it. My verdict is that the food (international cuisine) is solid without being exceptional.

Ironically, I found out later that Chris’s Place is no longer owned by Chris. So, obviously I have postponed my visit too long. Apparently, his ex-wife is now in charge.

5. Which fine-dining restaurants – that are new to me – are on my list for a next stay in Madeira?

My search for the best fine-dining restaurants in Madeira never ends. So, I already have a to-do list for my next stay in Madeira (November 2025). The Michelin Guide 2025 for Madeira included two restaurants that were new to me. On the one hand, it is about Oxalis at Hotel Casa Velha do Palheiro.

From what I read, it was opened in September 2024. They renovated the existing dining spot and launched a new concept. Chef Gonçalo Bita Bota is in charge here, who has been working at this hotel since March 2022. Although the whole sounds interesting enough, I am not sure whether we will make it there as it is a bit out of town.

On the other hand, Michelin added one more eatery in Madeira to its guide, Audax. This time, it is a spot that is more conveniently located in Funchal’s “Hotel Zone”.

And the restaurant’s concept of a progressive Madeiran cuisine sounds really promising (bookable through TheFork). From what I found out on my research (there is no website), it has been open since April 2023. And young chef César Vieira joined the family project (Marisa Freitas as owner, son Diogo as manager) in September 2023.

Date of last visit: January 2025

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The post Where to go in Madeira for best (Michelin) fine dining first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post Where to go in Madeira for best (Michelin) fine dining appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

When traveling the Peloponnese and using Athens’ airport, you cannot help but visiting Greece’s capital too. At least if you have not yet done it before, which was the case for my husband and me. So, we had scheduled a three-day city getaway in the capital after finishing our two-week journey in the southernmost part of the Greek mainland. After much time in the Greek countryside, we yearned the hustle of city life. Above all, we were looking forward to savoring one of the best hotels and some of the Michelin (starred) restaurants in Athens. While we had not eaten badly at all in the Peloponnese, we were more than ready for a change. We had booked three Michelin dining spots, one of them a starred one, close to where we were lodging. And this was at a newer luxury hotel opposite the Old Parliament. Find in the following all the details of our Athens stay.

Before delving into this topic, first a few lines to our Peloponnese trip.

14 days on the road in the Peloponnese in style

The Peloponnese Peninsula, just south-west of Athens, extends from Greece’s mainland like an outstretched hand. We traveled four of its fingers and its palm. A three-part mini-series goes into the different areas. The route is indicated on my Google Map below:

Part one of this series starts with an overview of the whole journey, followed by detailed reports. We began our round trip on its “Thumb” (around Nafplio, part one) before continuing to the “East Finger” (Monemvasia and surroundings, part two). Next was the “Middle Finger” (Mani, part two). Before heading to the “Peloponnese Palm” (Olympia and Arcadia, part three), we explored the “West Finger” (Messenia, part three). All the while, we tried to stay at upscale hotels and eat at fine-dining restaurants, which was not easy. First, they are not really plentiful. Second, our timing was not ideal (late October/early November). Many establishments had already closed for the season. Yet, we managed properly enough. I also included some information about what to do everywhere we were in my reporting.

But now to the capital, where staying and dining in style most probably is never an issue. When looking for lodging and dining in Athens, we had a luxury hotel and Michelin (starred) restaurants in mind. They should be among the best in town yet worth the money spent on them. Find all the corresponding details hereafter – but nothing about things to do in Greece’s capital – such information is already abundant on the internet.

Which luxury hotel to choose in Athens

As my husband and I wanted to explore Athens by foot, we had been looking for a centrally located upscale hotel. As some more known establishments in the heart of Greece’s capital came with rather hefty price tags, we widened our search on smaller lodgings. And when I discovered Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, I found it to be the perfect choice for the two of us. Read on to learn why.

Hotel Xenodocheio Milos Athens’ back story

The hotel is named for chef Costas Spiliadis’s restaurants called Estiatorio Milos found in over ten locations all over the world. He has made a name for himself for his refined yet unpretentious approach to Greek cuisine, offering fresh Mediterranean fish and seafood.

With his first hotel carrying the Milos brand name he also entered the hotel industry. And he chose a similar way as with his restaurants, meaning to create a lodging that is upscale yet understated. With his first hotel project he wants to hold up the mottos of “philoxenia” (“friend to a stranger”) and to “xenodocheio” (“make a stranger feel at home”).

Location of Xenodocheio Milos Athens, one of the best hotels in town

In my view, Hotel Xenodocheio Milos in the Commercial Triangle of Athens could not be more perfectly located! It is situated in the heart of downtown Athens opposite the Old Parliament House. Very close by you find the central Syntagma Square, the National Gardens and the city’s chicest shopping street. Many popular neighbourhoods are in its immediate proximity: Plaka, one of Athens’ oldest,

Psyrri, the creative center, or the glitzy Kolonaki. Plus, there is an abundance of fine restaurants nearby. And the Acropolis is easily accessible from Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, though not exactly next door.

Ambiance/Staff

The building that has housed Xenodocheio Milos since January 2022 embodies the grandeur of Athens’ history. It is a stunning neo-classical building, established in 1880. In 1979, the Greek Ministry of Culture even proclaimed it as “designated landmark building”.

Yet also the interiors are persuasive. It spans over five floors and private balconies. On the ground floor, Restaurant Estiatorio Milos with a bar

take up the most space. It really is a dream of white marble, light-colored wood and smooth leather. And it comes with a nod to the nautical world (some kind of fishing nets on the ceiling).

There is little room left for the reception area, which is staffed by very accommodating and helpful employees. Service was provided with the signature warmth that we experienced throughout the hotel.

Rooms at Xenodocheio Milos Athens

Out of the 42 rooms at Xenodocheio Milos we chose the Executive Junior Suite (42-46sqm, 542€ with breakfast). While some rooms of other categories have views of the Old Parliament Hill, this is not so for the Executive Junior Suites. They are in the corner of the hotel overlooking an arcade and some rather ugly office buildings. Our accommodation was spacious and elongated with only one not so big window, which made it a bit dark. Yet it is a historical building, still I wish that the lighting system had been better (some lamps are connected).

Otherwise, we were fond of our room, which was sleek and minimalist. Design wise, I especially liked the headboard and the desk, which were curvy. From what understand, they echoes the movement of the wind through inflated sails, another nautical nod. The room features a rather large table, so in-room dining would have been a good option. The bathroom was spacious and with white marble finishes.

We had booked the room with breakfast that was served in the above mentioned Restaurant Estiatorio Milos on the ground floor. We liked what we got, tasty Greek yoghurt with granola, a fruit and a cheese platter, a bread and pastry basket and local honey. The one thing  I found slightly disappointing was that we had exactly the same offerings – to the type of the pastry – on three consecutive days.

Facilities

I already mentioned the dining spot onsite several times, Restaurant Estiatorio Milos, serving upscale Greek seafood. My husband and I did not dine here, we only had breakfast. There were three reasons for this. First, we had enough of such food on our Peloponnese trip prior to the Athens stay. Second, dining at this restaurant comes with a high price tag. And third, it does not appear in the Michelin guide.

As to other facilities at Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, they are limited. You find here a small wellness and fitness suite. Yet who needs more when being on a city trip?

In summary about one of the best hotels in Athens

I cannot imagine that there is a much better choice than Hotel Xenodocheio Milos in Athens when it comes to staying in style with an eye for value for money at the best possible location in town. And the building which houses the lodging is a historical gem. Its interiors come in minimalist decor with lots of white marble finishes both in the restaurant and the guest room’s bathrooms. Our room (Executive Junior Suite) was stylish and spacious, yet a bit on the dark side (only one window). Staff was always gracious and keen to help. The (seafood) restaurant onsite, Estiatorio Milos, is showy – much more than the reception. Yet you have to know that it is Costas Spiliadis’s baby, who has over ten dining spots of the same name all over the world. As to Hotel Xenodocheio Milos, it is his first foray into the hotel industry!

Dining in style in Athens

I mentioned it before, we dined at three Michelin (starred) restaurants on our Athens stay. As always when there is a huge selection of foodie spots to chose from, my husband and I opt for such ones that meet following criteria: among the best restaurants yet not costing the earth, near to our hotel, more on the modern side and getting good reviews.

1. Restaurant Mercerie (Michelin listed)

This relaxed yet chic dining spot is in the most beautiful pedestrian road that I came across in three days of exploring Athens! It is about Iraklidon Street, the beating heart of the Thissio neighborhood. The setting is perfect for an enjoyable meal either in the stylish outdoor area or in the interiors, which are nearly identical.

Mercerie is helmed by two female chefs – Melina Chomata and Maria Ntioudi -, with year-long experience at luxury hotels in Santorini. They perform in an open kitchen, allowing diners to watch the chefs at work.

On offer at Mercerie is international cuisine, sometimes more classy, other times more contemporary, yet often also with a Greek touch. You can choose among an à la carte menu, where you also find a “Raw”-section, and a 7-course tasting menu (on our visit 65€, now 70€). My husband and I opted for the latter, and we were delighted by what we got, which was equally fresh, light, creative, varied and tasty.

Service was pleasant and competent. The only negative point was that they only had paper napkins, what did not suit the character of this establishment.

2. Restaurant Nolan (Michelin Bib Gourmand)

Without being aware of it, Nolan was in its final stages as it was known on our dinner in November 2024. This was the last month of Sotiris Kontizas’ time at this casual fine dining outlet, which is in close proximity to the Syntagma Square.

The chef has Greek Japanese roots and served refined Greek-Asian fusion dishes at Nolan, meant to share,

and this as from 2016. From what I read this dining spot gained popularity very fast among Athens foodies. I can understand that well – other than the excellent food, the rates were reasonable, and the service was very good. While the news of the chef having left is a pity, it is not the end of Nolan.

The eatery’s website states that the collaboration with Sotiris Kontizas, also known as judge on Greek MasterChef, is finished. Since December 2024, Nolan has been aspiring to become a platform for experimentation, and this for talented chefs. At the same time, basic principles will be left unchanged. The start made Michalis Nourloglou, who seems to be experienced professional. Let us hope that Nolan 2.0 can build on the success of its previous achievements.

3. Restaurant CTC Urban Gastronomy (one Michelin starred), one of the best restaurants in Athens

CTC Urban Gastronomy, established 2015, moved some years ago into the up and coming neighborhood of Kerameikos, known for its vibrant nightlife. Chef Alexandros Tsiotinis did so because this opened up the possibility of setting up an outdoor area. And a wonderful urban garden has been created.

Soon after the move, the new place got a Michelin star. And the restaurants is also on the 50Best Discovery List by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

On offer here is modern Greek cuisine over 11 courses – called CTC Voyage, priced at 105€ -,

served in a contemporary setting. Everything we got was creative, delicious and memorable. A signature dish here is the octopus-shaped fava bean pannacotta glazed with octopus jelly.

Staff was courteous and competent. Dining at CTC Urban Gastronomy was definitely the highlight of all the meals we had on this Greece trip.

Before coming to an end of my Greece reporting, here are some more culinary tips for “connoisseurs” visiting Athens.

3 more culinary tips for Athens

Without much additional information, here are three addresses in Athens’ Commercial Triangle for people appreciating the finer things in life. It is about a bar, a patisserie and and an ice-cream parlor. As to the first mentioned one, I recommend Baba au Rum, a casual bar with creative drinks, nice staff and good music. This pleasant place even made it to The World’s 50 Best Bars list. When it comes to patisserie, maybe try out The Zillers Pastry Bar. While the place lacks organization, the pastries are delicious. And Georgios Platinos, working at one-star Michelin restaurant The Zillers, is responsible for them.

And last but not least, Oggi Athens features divine Italian ice-cream.

Looking back to a Peloponnese 14-day road trip & an Athens 3-day stay in style

In this very post (part four), it was all about an ideally situated luxury hotels in Greece’s capital and three great Michelin (starred) restaurants in close proximity. Part one to three concentrated on the main focus of the journey that my husband and I undertook in late October/early November 2024. And this was to the “Peloponnese Hand”, called like this because of the form of this southernmost part of mainland Greece. Part one was about an overview and the “Thumb” (Nafplio and surroundings). Part two showcased the “East Finger” (Monemvasia etcetera) and the “Middle Finger” (Mani). Finally, part three finally went into the “West Finger” (Messenia) and the “Palm” (Olympia and the mountainous Arcadia). Throughout my Peloponnese reporting, I informed about what to do in the respective places and where to go for upscale hotels and restaurants.

Date of visit: November 2024

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Finally we come to the last part of a North and Central France trip done in late summer 2024. This is the France west-east crossing from the Brittany – which was the actual focus and part two – back to Switzerland where my husband and I live. We did so by taking the route via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal. As to part one, that was about our way from home to Brittany, which led over the Champagne and the Normandy, and where I gave an outline of the whole journey. My reporting includes the itinerary with some of the most important things to do everywhere we went plus the one or other walking suggestion. Furthermore, I let you know where to head for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants, here in this post it is about Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Before I come to these three places, find in the following again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all our (luxury) hotels and the (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants en route:

From place to place in North and Central France, part III, Cognac, Dordogne & Cantal

1. Cognac north of Bordeaux

About Cognac

The town of Cognac in the Charente Departement is about two hours by car north of Bordeaux. It is famous for one of the world’s best-known type of brandy. To label a spirit Cognac, it must be from a certain area and strictly made according to regulations (double-distilled). A bit like in the Champagne, you can visit the “Grande Marque” Cognac houses to view the process and to taste it.

Otherwise, in my view Cognac does not have much to offer in kind of attractions. The location on the Charente river is nice but that is it.

I found the town and even its historic center not that special. Yet it makes a great stopover for luxury traveler as you can find here two of the best luxury hotels in the area, Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa and Hotel La Nauve. While the former is in town, the latter is in Cognac’s surroundings.

Our hotel: La Nauve Cognac

My husband and I opted for the newer one of the mentioned luxury hotels, La Nauve, opened in summer 2023. And that was a great decision! It is idyllically located in a former Cognac distillery and mansion a few minutes by car from Cognac. What a beauty La Nauve is!

It is wonderfully restored with the finest materials.

Though, I considered it as impractical in many aspects, especially as far our room was concerned (Prestige Room, 33-38 sqm, No. 10, 696€ per night with breakfast, out of 12 in total). Without going in details, it was adorable from its looks, and there was a huge outdoor area too.

The breakfast was fantastic, served in the library (on inadequate chairs for the occasion).

Staff was faultless, and there are two great restaurants onsite (see below). You find here also a large garden, a bar and an outdoor pool.

Our restaurants: both at Hotel La Nauve in Cognac

We did not venture out of the hotel as I thought that both in-house dining spots made a good impression. And I was right so, both belong to the best restaurants you can find in Cognac! First I come to the casual bistro and then to the elegant gourmet dining spot, both led by chef Anthony Carballo. And pastry chef (Simon Souchaud) is a genius, I adored his varying brioches!

a) Brasserie des Flâneurs Cognac

This was one of the few restaurants on our journey through France that was not Michelin listed (although it would have deserved the award). It is situated in an annexe – that used to be the estate’s distillery – and has a modern, casual vibe.

Staff was unobtrusive but friendly. And the place seems to draw quite a number of locals. They serve modern international food, expertly prepared. Prices are at a medium level (starters from 16 to 19€, mains from 25 to 30€ and desserts around 10€).

b) Notes, gourmet restaurant, Cognac

The Michelin listed Notes is quite different from the above eatery. It is a refined dining establishment in an intimate part of the main manor.

You can make your choice between two tasting menus, one with four and the other with seven courses. I found them adequately priced, fitting the upscale setting at La Nauve (on our evening 80 and 120€). The ambiance is sophisticated and the staff, especially the head server, was top notch on our dinner. And the food – modern French cuisine – was sublime, in my view even worthy a Michelin star.

2. The Dordogne aka the Périgord

About the Dordogne/Périgord

The Dordogne department ist often called by its old name, the Périgord. The former is clearly a territorial designation (the river Dordogne). The Périgord is a historical name, it dates back to Roman times and represented the old province at the time. Yet both stand for a lovely landscape full of medieval castles, prehistoric caves and fortified villages.

The main town is Périgueux, boasting a charming old town with 2,000 years of history.

Then there are lots of villages that are part of the Les plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages in France). Quite a few are around Sarlat, in the Black Périgord, the most popular part for visitors. I name here La Roque Gageac,

Beynac et Cazenac, Castelnaud la Chapelle or Dome. Plus, you find in the Dordogne also Jardins Remarquables (remarkable gardens), one of the more popular is Jardin du Manor d’Eyrignac.

While everything is very nice to look at, it is also quite busy (many large groups of bus tourists). To avoid the crowds, we did a nice walk/hike from La Roque Gageac to the Castelnaud La Chapelle Castle along the Dordogne, here is the link to the track on Outdooractive.

Our hotel: Domaine de Rochebois in Vitrac

Upfront I have to mention that we found it hard to select an accommodation to stay in style in the Dordogne. In search of best hotels here, you are somewhat lost. Really good luxury lodging is a rarity in this area. And our choice after much consideration turned out to be suboptimal. While Domaine de Rochebois is a beautiful property, it feels somewhat neglected.

From what I read, the hotel experienced quite some changes (opened in 1993, reopened in 2022 after a closure of 10 years, sold in 2024). On our stay, the restaurant and the golf course were closed. The room we had (Junior Suite Prestige, No. 212, 50 sqm, 514€ per night with breakfast, 40 rooms in total) had been updated not so long ago but already felt a bit dated. The same was true for the outdoor area (mossy cushions).

Staff was friendly, and the breakfast was okay. Onsite, you also find an outdoor pool and a spa. There is a bar too, yet it felt dreary.

Our restaurants: Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac & O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

If you are looking for best restaurants in the Dordogne, specifically in the so called Black Périgord, there is no way around the following two establishments.

a) Ô Moulin in Carsac-Aillac

We were much in favor of this small restaurant with a Michelin Bib Gourmand, opened in 2018. It is idyllically located in a former water-powered sawmill. The attentive lady of the house – Cécile Guérin – welcomed us and ushered us in the contemporary, casual dining room.

Her partner, Nicolas Aujoux, celebrates a modern French cuisine and occasionally also served plates on our dinner. You can choose among there tasting menus (3/3/6 courses 42/57/82€) and also dine à la carte, what we did. We had a fabulous duo of duck liver and turbot fillet, also the desserts were persuasive.

And the host even exchanged a few sentences with us, which was nice.

b) O’Plaisir des Sens in La Roque Gageac

At O’Plaisir des Sens, Bruno (chef) and Lydia Marien (host) have been at work here since 2015. The chef’s cooking expertise is evident, the restaurant is Michelin listed. His cuisine is classic, although with a modern twist. As far as the dining spot’s appearance is concerned, it is somewhat eclectic.

And the service on our dinner was down to earth, at times not quite seamless, e.g. when the host served cheese from the trolley. Plus, the business is a family affair, on our visit a daughter helped out in the service. Food wise, you have several options. Either you can choose one of three tasting menus (3/4/4 courses at 48/69/85€) or dine à la carte. We had the “the golden middle-menu”, which was fine, although a bit awkwardly composed (white beans with bacon, a delicious duck liver, sweetbread and a peach dessert).

3. Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

About Cantal, Auvergne/Aubrac Plateau

The Cantal mountain range respectively the Aubrac plateau are not necessarily places you know as foreign travelers. My husband and I ended up here because we had been looking for a stopover on our way from the Dordogne back to Switzerland. And imagine, we enjoyed here not only the culinary highlight, but also one of the best hotels stays of the whole trip. But more to how to travel in style further below.

If you are wondering where exactly we were, it was the town of Chaudes-Aigues.

It is located in the Massif Central in the heart of France, between the Cantal mountain range and the Aubrac plateau. The area is sparsely populated and geographically isolated. Much of Cantal is about pasture for the cattle – among other the old breed of Aubrac – and sheep. And this is because the climate is usually too cold and damp for grain. And we well noticed this on a walk we did in the area (link to the track on Outdooractive).

Regarding Chaudes-Aigues, it is a spa resort with more than 30 hot springs across the town. And the most famous is the Par Spring, which is the warmest natural one in whole Europe! As to natural beauties in the surroundings, there are the Aubrac Regional Nature Park, the Laussac Peninsula or the Truyère Gorges. A town you might have heard of is Laguiole where you find many companies that manufacture the famous Laguiole knives. In addition, it is a pretty village too.

Our hotel/restaurant in Cantal: Serge Vieira

My husband and I came to the Cantal region not because of the hot springs or the natural beauties, but because of the two-star Michelin Restaurant Serge Vieira. On our “mission” of finding the best restaurants everywhere we go, we stranded in this remote place. And fortunately, this highly decorated dining spot comes with accommodation options too. You can either stay at three rooms at the Couffour Castle (Restaurant Serge Vieira)

or at 18 rooms at their second place, Hotel Sodade, down in Chaudes-Aigues. Here in town, you also find Restaurant Sodade with a Michelin Bib Gourmand. I think that these establishments belong to the best what you can find in terms of upscale hotels and restaurants in the near and further area.

a) Stay at Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle

As I mentioned above, we experienced not only culinary delights at Serge Vieira but also a great hotel stay. Out of the three rooms available at Couffour Castle we opted for the “Yellow Room” (about 30 sqm, 415€ with continental breakfast). Yet I think all three have the same layout. We liked what we encountered, a modern and generously sized accommodation with an outdoor area for viewing the peaceful rural scenery.

What I very much appreciated was that the room came with two financier-pastries on both days of our stay. And the breakfast was out of this world!

Plus, Marie-Aude Vieira is the best host you could wish for.

b) Restaurant Serge Vieira, the best restaurant of our France journey

There is a sad back story behind this establishment. This is because the two-star Michelin chef Serge Vieira died of cancer at the age of 46 in mid 2023. Before he had built up with his wife Marie-Aude a successful restaurant and hotel business (Restaurant Serge Vieira at Couffour Castle from 2009 as well as Hotel and Restaurant Sodade from 2019). After her husband’s death, Marie-Aude Vieira took over. She did this with the help of a long-time friend of the family, Aurélien Gransagne. He runs the kitchen and she the dining room. I must say, we had the most exceptional dinners here – we ate here two evenings in a row (originally, we wanted to have the second one at Restaurant Sodade).

While I cannot judge Serge Vieira’s cuisine, I was delighted by Aurélien Gransagne’s inspired and truly unique dishes. You can choose between two menus: M for Marie-Aude at 235€ (6 courses) and S for Serge at 135€ (4 courses). Among other delicacies we had the most formidable lobster paired with corn or a dessert creation made of figs and almonds.

We enjoyed this in the ultra-modern dining room with picture windows to take in the views.

And this well cared for by the amiable host and her team.

Looking back to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & II)

Here it was about the last part (three) of a North and Central France trip my husband and I did recently. It regards the itinerary from Cognac over the Dordogne to the Cantal, which was our way home to Switzerland from the Brittany. The start (part one) made the opposite direction, from our home country to our actual main destination. The voyage went first to the Champagne, then to the Normandy. And part two focused on the journey’s centerpiece, the Brittany.

Date of stay: September 2024

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The post 19 days on the road in North & Central France in style – PART III way from Brittany to Switzerland first appeared on Swiss Traveler

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Now it is about the Brittany, the main focus of a road trip in North and Central France that my husband and I did in late summer 2024. To get here from our home country of Switzerland we travelled via the Champagne and the Normandy. Part one of my mini-series about the voyage went into it – and also gave an overview of the whole journey. In this very post, I concentrate on the Brittany. And part three – soon to appear on my blog – focuses on our way home from the Brittany that lead us to Cognac, the Dordogne and Cantal. In all three posts, I inform about the itinerary including the major sights and some walking suggestions. And I let you know where to go for best (luxury) hotels and (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants; here as mentioned it is about Brittany.

Before diving into the Brittany, first again my Google Map with our North and Central France itinerary plus all the (luxury) hotels and the Michelin fine-dining restaurants we were:

From place to place in North & Central France, part II, Brittany

Brittany: Dinard, Perros-Guirec & Sainte-Marine/Combrit

As you have learnt by now, Brittany was our trip’s main focus. We totally spent twelve nights here, four in each spot. The start made two places on the north coast, first Dinard, in the region’s northeast. Perros-Guirec, in the northwest followed. And Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper on the west coast and at the same time in Brittany’s southwest made the end.

About Brittany

Walking/Hiking on GR 34

What I found brillant about Brittany is the fact that there is a walking/hiking trail running the entire coastline (GR 34). And this Sentier des Douaniers (Customs Trail) is about 2,000 km/ 1,243 mi long. Not that my husband and I did overly long tours, but we picked out the one or other stretch of track at every place we stayed. As to Dinard, I was fond of the walk from Dinard to Saint-Lunaire (link track Outdooractive). Around Perros-Guirec, I absolutely adored the trail from Sainte-Anne to Bringuiller (link track Outdooractive).

And in the department Finistère (around Quimper) the walk/hike on the Crozon peninsula was nice (link track Outdooractive).

Town hopping in Brittany

Of course, there is also much to in Brittany in case you do not want to walk or hike. We visited quite a numbers of towns and especially liked the following ones. I list them from northeast to southwest. Cancale is a pretty port and famous for its oysters.

And  I think we came across the most beautiful villages in Brittany just before reaching it on our way from Honfleur. Saint-Malo is a fascinating granite city with its impressive rampart but unfortunately overtouristed. Dinard – nicknamed “Cannes of the north” – is an absolute beauty with its numerous Belle Époque villas.

More to Brittany’s west, Tréguier is worth a quick visit with its huge cathedral, the beautiful narrow streets and little squares. Perros-Guirec is a charming small seaside resort with a relaxed feel.

The nearby Ploumanac’h is famous for its imposing, pink granite rocks. Lannion is a historic town with pretty houses and small paved streets.

In the region’s south, Quimper has not only a majestic cathedral but also a nice historical district. Plus it has a distinctive Breton Celtic character.

Concarnau is a small walled town, which is nice but very touristy (one of the most visited places in Brittany). As far as I am concerned, I liked the nearby Pont-Aven better, famous for its colony of painters in the 19th century. It is picturesquely nestled on the banks of the Aven river with enchanting alleys in the old town.

Our hotels in Brittany: Castelbrac Dinard, L’Agapa Perros-Guirec & Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

Now it is about the three (luxury) hotels we had in Brittany, which I regard as the possibly best you can find here. While the first two (Castelbrac and L’Agapa) are five-star establishments, the last (Villa Tri Men) is a four-star. Whereas the guest experience at Castelbrac was as perfect as it gets, this was not so at L’Agapa. Let me be straight, for me this accommodation is no real luxury hotel, it is rather a four-star. And I did not really warm to its vibe, which I found a bit old-fashioned. Hotel Castel Beau Site, a bit more in the west, might be a (better) alternative (built 1928, opened 2020, 28 rooms, 4-star). As to Villa Tri Men, it definitely is a four-star, yet one with an upscale ambiance. Now, to some more details to each of these three lodgings.

Castelbrac Dinard

This was the most upscale hotel of our voyage and also the best overall experience we had! It has a favourable position in Dinard, right on the beachfront promenade.

It was opened in 2015 in a historic building that used to house a museum of natural history. Now, there are 25 guest rooms looking out over the water, many with terraces, just as ours, which was huge (Prestige Room Terrace Sea View, 40 sqm, No. 4, 772€ per night with breakfast & one drink). Their style is refined yet laid-back, with Art Deco features.

Staff did a really good job, and we were served the most lovely breakfast.

Furthermore, you find here a bar, transformed from the museum’s former aquarium, and a Michelin-star restaurant (details follow below). But not enough, Castelbrac also has an outdoor pool, a small chapel and a vintage motorboat for excursions.

L’Agapa Perros-Guirec

As mentioned above, our stay here turned out to be a bit of a deception. The hotel is big for the area, where lodging tends to be small-scale (45 rooms).

It was opened in 2005 with some renovations made in the meantime. We had booked a room in one of the two annexes (Deluxe la Désirade, 45 sqm, No. 72, 384€ per night with breakfast & half a bottle of Champagne). It had a nice sea view and a generous layout, but I found it cheaply built. And it was musty, especially the bathroom, which would otherwise have been quite attractive.

Other facilities included a bar, a Michelin listed restaurant (details see below) and a spa. Breakfast was okay, as was the staff. In favor of L’Agapa must be mentioned that their pricing is reasonable. Plus, they replaced the Champagne in our room daily.

Villa Tri Men Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My husband and I felt comfortable at this elegant 19th century villa overlooking Sainte-Marine’s port. It is most probably the only bigh-end property in the area, especially if you value good reviews.

While the room we had was small and understated (Cottage, 25 sqm, No. 21, 384€ per night with breakfast), it was not a problem for us. Yet none of the 19 rooms at Villa Tri Men are large (opened in 2003, renovated in 2017/18). The bathroom at the cottage was quite spacious. Unfortunately, it had a slight moisture issue, but it was manageable. Plus, we had a nice outdoor area with a river view, as the only one of three cottages in total.

Onsite your find a bar and a Michelin starred dining spot (more info follows). And there is a second restaurant affiliated to the hotel down at the port (Michelin listed, details below). Staff is friendly and helpful, and a good breakfast is served here.

Our best restaurants in Brittany: my ranking

We dined at quite a number of fine-dining restaurants in Brittany on our nine-night stay. I will rank the dining spots we were in descending order of my fondness. And as longer this section goes, the shorter my recounting of the dining experience becomes. Frankly, none of the eateries – all listed in the Michelin guide – disappointed. Some showed weaknesses regarding the service or the concept, yet the food was always good or even excellent.

My No. 1 restaurant in Brittany: Les Trois Rochers Sainte-Marine/Combrit

My absolute favourite in terms of best restaurants in Brittany was the one-Michelin Les Trois Rochers in Sainte-Marine/Combrit near Quimper. Here Frédéric Claquin has been in charge since 2003, awarded a Michelin star since 2016. He celebrates a creative seafood cuisine blended with spices from around the world. The setting is nice, a modernly furnished dining room with picture windows to view the beautiful port scenery.

Three tasting menus are on offer: 3-course 67€ (weekdays only), 4-course 99€ and 6-course 142€. We opted for the whole shebang as we celebrated my birthday. And it was a delectable culinary journey from A to Z, delivered by competent and warm staff.

My No. 2 dining spot in Brittany: La Table de mon Père Perros-Guirec

This Michelin listed place is the hotel restaurant of Castel Beau Site I mentioned above. My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous meal here in a contemporary-chic setting. And this with a stunning view of the St. Guirec Beach.

At work here is Nicolas Le Luyer, a true Breton. He has featured a modern cuisine and has showcased local produce since 2013. On offer at La Table de mon Père is a 3-course menu of the moment for 59€. Furthermore, there are two tasting menus, 4/6 courses for 89/109€. And you can also order à la carte, what we did. As a main course, we had pork filet in unison with local sea snails (42€), which was a delight! The standard of service was pretty good, although not completely faultless.

My No. 3 eatery in Brittany: Éclosion in Quimper

This is an urban gourmet restaurant at its best! Éclosion, awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand, was a real find for us. Not only got we contemporary food with a foreign twist at moderate prices, but also the service was very persuasive. Marion Pelletan is responsible for the dining-room, and this with lots of competence and and passion.

Thibault Le Goff in in charge of the open kitchen. And they have been doing this since early 2023. The menu includes three starters, mains and desserts each, from which you can compose a 3-/4-course menu (38€/45€). The setting is nice, modern and inviting at the same time. A must-do restaurant in case you come to Quimper!

My No. 4 restaurant in Brittany: Pourquoi Pas in Dinard

Pourquoi Pas is the “hotel restaurant” at the five-star Castelbrac. It has been holding a Michelin star since 2019, and this under the lead of  Julien Hennote. He is Breton yet a well travelled one. In the kitchen, he favors local produce and sustainable coastal fishing. You get here a 4-/6-/8-course menu (80/100/120€). On our dinner here, we had a lobster menu. It included six dishes, which were all inventive and well-made, though we found the main special. It was a lobster tail on sausage slices, which we considered a strange pairing. Yet the desserts were fantastic. And we also got a goodie, a financier with algae. This may sound awkward, but it was very tasty! Had it not been for the the somewhat awkward main dish, this dining spot would have topped our ranking of best restaurants in Brittany.

Service was good as was the ambiance at this elegant and stylish dining spot with its wonderful view of the Saint-Malo Bay.

My No. 5 to 8 dining spots in Brittany

Two more Dinard dining spots follow in my ranking of best restaurants in Brittany, both Michelin listed. This is about Ombelle and Didier Méril. While the former is modern and casual,

the latter is traditional and elegant, yet both with sea view.

Whereas Ombelle is reasonably priced, Didier Méril seems rather pricy for the area. Staff at both establishments left a mixed impression. However, the two of them offered quite a good food experience.

No. 7 is Le Bélouga in Perros-Guirec and No. 8 Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine/Combrit, both included in the Michelin guide. The former is a hotel restaurant with a great sea view yet with quite a chilly atmosphere.

The service was so-so, however the food was persuasive (bistronomic and moderately priced, especially on Sunday and Monday).

The latter is a hotel restaurant too, but not your typical one. Instead, it is a real bistro

with fresh and simple seafood dishes (sole was great).

And the setting on a small port is lovely.

Looking back and forth to road trip in North & Central France in style (part I & III)

This very post went into the centerpiece of our North and Central France trip, the Brittany. To summarize, part one (last blogpost) was about our way from Switzerland to the Brittany. It went to the Champagne first, followed by the Normandy. Soon on my blog, you will find part three (the last of this mini-series), highlighting the route we took when returning home from the Brittany. We did so via Cognac, the Dordogne and the Cantal.

Date of stay: September 2024

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I just wanted to let you know that I have updated my Switzerland directories for traveling and dining in style for 2025! There are the four of them. The first two are about where to go in my lovely home country. You find not only a grand tour of Switzerland but also an overview of premium destinations for the discerning traveler. Furthermore, I inform on where to stay and where to dine in style while traveling along the grand tour through this Alpine nation.

Here are the details:

1. Guide to visiting Switzerland
2. Premium destinations in Switzerland
3. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part one – core and west
4. Guide to luxury hotels in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east
5. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part one – core and west
6. Directory to fine dining in Switzerland, part two – Alps and east

I would like to highlight in particular my advice to foodies spots in Switzerland (5. and 6.).

It is based on dining directories just as the Michelin Guide and the Gault Millau Guide. And whenever they publish a new edition I amend my articles accordingly. But of course my personal opinions also play a role when creating them.

One more remark to end this short blogpost about my freshly updated Switzerland dine and travel in style guides. It is about how to use them. In case you do not want to read them from A to Z – which I would perfectly understand as they are quite long – , then proceed as follows. If you are only interested in a specific place, go to the contents section and click at “show”. Go to the spot of your choice and only read the correspondent paragraph!

Happy traveling and dining to all of you in 2025! And maybe let me know what you think about my directories.

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post My Switzerland travel & dine in style directories 2025 appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

While Stresa itself has some dining spots recommended by Michelin, my husband and I did not choose them. Either they appeared too traditional or too touristy to us. Instead we headed to its surroundings on our search for the best fine-dining restaurants in the Stresa area. There was one exception, and this was the restaurant at our hotel, Boutique Hotel Stresa (my review), where we enjoyed two fine dinners. As to Stresa’s vicinity, we found two gourmet spots (both Michelin listed) that we were fond of. The one was an elegant two-star place, the other was a modern, rather casual eatery. What they both had in common were their great setting, hovering on the lake.

Before coming to more details on three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa, some lines about the Piedmont journey my husband and I undertook.

11-day road trip in the Piedmont/Swiss west in style

Our trip had two focuses in the Piedmont, the first in the wine region around Alba in the Langhe, the other in Stresa on Lake Maggiore (see itinerary). These were complemented by two stopovers, one in Caluso north of Turin (Piedmont), the other in the Swiss west (near Lake Geneva). As always when traveling, my husband and I look out for best places for staying and dining in style. And we like to walk everywhere we go.

Regarding to the first main destination near Alba, I published three posts. While the first was about our luxury hotel, the second went into three of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants. The third finally focused on activities in the area. When it comes to Stresa, I cover the same topics. Already on my blog there is a review on the high-end hotel we stayed at (my post). A report on things to do here will end my Piedmont mini-series.

3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa on the Lake Maggiore

As I mentioned above, one of the best fine-dining places I identified around Stresa is in the town itself. This one will made the start. Then I look at the flagship restaurant in the area, a two-star Michelin spot. A no-frills eatery will end my reporting on the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa.

1. LeBolle Restaurant at Boutique Hotel Stresa

About

LeBolle is the “hotel restaurant” at Boutique Hotel Stresa. My husband and I had a four-night stay at this splendid property opened in 2023.

As LeBolle Restaurant looked appealing and got good reviews, we booked two dinners here. This in addition to having breakfast here on four days. As to the latter, it was a good experience. Apart from choosing from a well-assorted buffet, you could also order from an à la carte menu. While some more elaborate dishes costed extra, others just as fresh fruit salad, a bowl of wild berries or pancakes were free of charge.

The head chef at LeBolle Restaurant is Andrea Falciola, who seems to be quite experienced when it comes to working in hotel kitchens in the Lake Maggiore region. Among other places of work, he also was head chef at Grand Hotel Dino in Baveno, another five-star hotel in the area.

What to expect at LeBolle Restaurant?

As to dining here, you have three options location wise. Weather permitting, you can dine at the outdoor restaurant. Here you can select either one of the “regular” tables or – depending on availability – one of five bubbles.

I highly recommend the latter as having a meal in such an igloo made of glass and wood is quite a unique experience. If the weather does not cooperate, dining indoors is also nice. An elegant and contemporarily furnished dining-room with an open cuisine awaits you. And this comes complete with generous spacing between tables for more privacy and personal space.

In terms of cuisine, you are in here for upscale Mediterranean food with a modern touch. As usual in Italy, you can opt for dishes in four sections (starters, first courses, second courses and desserts). My husband and I thought that three courses were enough for an average eater. Starters (21 to 26€) included a rabbit terrine, an amberjack ceviche or a tomato millefeuille. First courses (22 to 29€) were all about risotto and pasta. As to the mains (24 to 38€), sea bass, suckling pig or a veggie dish were on offer. And desserts (18€) were varied, from a trio of sorbets to a pineapple steak to a cheesecake and less common creations.

How was it?

On both evenings, we were satisfied with what we had. Both times, we ordered either a pasta dish or a risotto to start the meal. As one would expect in Italy, they know how to do such dishes. I especially liked the Matcha Spaghettoni with Gomashio, Spinach and Shiitake Mushrooms. It was a great combination of western and eastern flavors.

Concerning the mains, they were also good but maybe a tad below the starters regarding taste and creativity. My favorite among them were the sea bass fillet with Moroccan lemon, anchovy saue and roasted eggplant. All the desserts we had (three out of five) were smooth and refined. The White Dream, a yoghurt sponge cake with white chocolate and cherry, was the one one I preferred most.

Andrea Falciola comes across as an accomplished chef, impressing with classics that are modernly interpreted. All the dishes we had came with a shot of innovation. He skillfully let flow Asian and Oriental influences in his western creations. The setting is hard to beat – in particular if you are lucky enough to secure one of those Bubbles! And the staff was hospitable, gracious and very Italian (a bit old school).

2. Restaurant Piccolo Lago in Verbania

About

Restaurant Piccolo Lago is for sure the most renowned gourmet restaurant in Stresa and surroundings. It has been helmed by chef Marco Sacco together with his wife and restaurant manager Raffaella Marchetti since the 1990s. The dining-spot, established in 1974 by the chef’s parents, has held two Michelin stars since 2007. However, in the guide for 2025, Piccolo Lago ist not listed. Apparently, the award has been put on hold, and this because of a first degree conviction for food poisoning (March 2024). An appeal is scheduled for spring 2025, so there are hopes that the sentence might be reversed. Despite this difficult situation, Marco Sacco vowed at the verdict that he would not give up cooking. And he has kept his word so far.

What to expect?

I have to admit that I did not know about this case of food poisoning when dining here in summer 2024. What I noticed at the time that there were not too many guests present. Yet the restaurant is spacious, 60 to 70 guests can be accommodated at this dream-like setting on Lake Mergozzo, about 15 minutes away from Stresa. And we got one of the best tables, right at the end of the over-hanging section that extends over the lake.

Plus, Raffaella Marchetti invited us to have a look around in the kitchen.

In any case, I am confident you are in here for a memorable (and safe) culinary experience. The food poisoning case I mentioned was about raw clams imported from France infected with the norovirus. They came in sealed packets from a long-term supplier.

On offer on our visit was a an eight-course tasting menu for 220€ that could be extended by one of the chef’s signatures courses. It was about his take of spaghetti carbonara, the Carbonara au Koque for 20€.

Alternatively, you could choose from an à la carte menu that consisted of 13 dishes. The latter is a novelty, which was not possible at Piccolo Lago for 20 years. Starters were between 40 and 50€, first courses from 40 to 55€, main courses between 50 and 60€ and desserts costed 25€.

How was it at one of the best fine-dining restaurants around Stresa?

The chef is known as “freshwater chef” thanks to his dedication to the local fish world. When my husband and I dined here, there were not that many fish dishes on the menu. My husband and I picked the only two that were available – we opted for à la carte. We ordered one from each of the mentioned sections (four dishes) and found that was just right in terms of quantity. And there were also snacks and a “post-dessert”.

While my husband started with Mother Earth, a vegetable dish, I had Ingot, trout in combination with raspberries, balsamic and flowers. We continued with the above mentioned Carbonara au Koque, where we got an eggshell with the sauce to dress the pasta at the table. As a main course, my husband chose the local eel done with local tea and rose sorbet. I had the Zucchina Trombetta, a zucchini dish with peas and beans. For desserts, we had Milk & Mint, made of ricotta, buckwheat, curry and coconut, and Chocolate, made with wine, goji, rose and sorbet. What for ingenious creations these all were! And service was of the highest level too.

3. Restaurant Battipalo in Lesa

About

As above, you are here directly on the lake. This time, it is Lake Maggiore and it is about a small town, Lesa. From Stresa, you get here in 10 minutes by car. Alternatively, you can arrive by boat as Battipalo is right next to the ferry dock. The restaurant is actually housed in the former ferry house. A middle-aged husband and wife team has been in charge here, Simona Benetti (chef) and Gabriele Boggio (host), and this since 2009. From what I read, they are both job switchers, she used to run a nearby optician’s shop, and he was in sales. But finally, they followed the call of their hearts and did what they liked best. And they really do it well! She did some internships with highly decorated chefs. He as a wine lover deepened his knowledge in this field. In the course of years, he has developed a knack for excellent niche products, we had a formidable (and reasonably priced) champagne here, a premier cru Vincent Bliard.

What to expect at Restaurant Battipalo?

Restaurant Battipalo is a modern dining spot in a gorgeous setting, hanging litterally over Lake Maggiore.

And there is also a lovely outdoor area.

While it is a relaxed place, you get here high-quality food with creative touches (Michelin listed). On the menu, you find (of course) lots of fish, yet also quite many meat dishes. As usual in Italy, the à la carte menu is divided into four sections. On our visit, each included four dishes, in addition cheese was available in the forth too.

For starters, think of a stuffed courgette flower, a deer tartare or zander tataki (17 to 19€). In terms of pasta and risotto, there was a cheese risotto with strawberries and peas, Roman gnocchi with snail ragu or tagliatelle with ragu (18 to 19€). When it came to mains (24 to 26€), you could choose between two fish dishes (freshwater and vegetable tempura or sturgeon steak) and two meat options (lamp rump or beef sirloin). To end the meal, the choice was between a zabaione,

a parfait or a puff pastry cannon (7 to 9€). Alternatively, there is the opportunity of a 5-course surprise menu for 60€.

How was it?

My husband and I had three courses each and considered it as sufficient for an average eater. In case you should be really hungry, opt for a forth or share an additional course with your diner companion. While my husband opted for pasta (tagliatelle with white ragu, asparagus and morels), I decided on the courgette flower stuffed with hummus and courgette cream. As main, we both had the sturgeon steak paired with asparagus and tzatziki. For dessert we chose a puff pastry cannon filled with slightly spiced cream and local daisies.

Everything we had was immaculately done, tasty and often a bit out of the box. I was pleasantly surprised that the chef was adept at subtle details! And we had a great corner table by the large windows where you feel like floating above the lake.

Also service wise I can only praise the staff’s work.

One more nearby restaurant recommendation

As we have not traveled the Italian Lakes area for the first time, I have one more restaurant recommendation for you. And it is not just another “normal” place but a three-star Michelin dining spot. It is about Villa Crespi on the nearby Lake Orta. You get here from Stresa in about half an hour by car. Find here my post about staying and dining at Villa Crespi. Our stay here dates back to 2021 when the restaurant “only” had two Michelin stars.

And also consider dining at Villa Crespi’s sister property, which is nearby. It is called Laqua by the Lake. I have not been here yet, but the dining spot has just received a Michelin star!

Looking back and forward on my Piedmont mini-series

After presenting a 11-day Piedmont itinerary (including a side trip to the Swiss west), I went into our two main stops here. One was in the wine region around Alba, the other was in Stresa on one of the Italian Lakes, Lake Maggiore, near Switzerland. In both cases, I wrote about where to stay (around Alba/Stresa) and dine (around Alba) in style plus what to do (around Alba). This very post was about where to go as a fine-dining lover in Stresa. And the one about activities in Stresa is yet to appear on my blog.

Date of stay: July 2024

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The post 3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa in the northern Piedmont/Italy first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post 3 of the best (Michelin) fine-dining restaurants around Stresa in the northern Piedmont/Italy appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

The worldwide tourism in 2023 was almost as strong as it was in its best year. That was in 2019, just before the Corona pandemic. This was so despite rising costs for traveling. And it is becoming apparent that this development will continue. It seems that especially the top income bracket wants to enjoy life in a way that is reminiscent of the post-war boom in the 20th century. My husband and I are no exception here. We did quite a lot of traveling in 2023. Yet this was due to a certain circumstance. As to 2024, there is already a big trip behind us. For the rest of the year, more travel is bound to come, however it will not go overseas. Find in the following all the details to the “special circumstance” as well as the latest travel news about Swiss Traveler for 2023 and 2024.

I start with the distinct situation my husband and I are in before coming to past and future journeys.

What is new in our life?

Our (travel) year 2023 was a special one. This because it was the last (complete) one where my husband was still employed. In mid 2024, he took early retirement. So, we are now both pensioners – I already gave up my employment some time ago. Will this development have any impact on our way of traveling? This is what we ask ourselves again and again. And we still have no definite answer to it.

Of course, I have the one or other idea what is going to change as to the manner in which we travel. I would like to spend a longer time in one spot, for example. This in order to fully immerse in a place und truly get to know its people and culture. That would entail only booking a hotel for the first few days and renting an apartment for the rest of the stay. While I cannot imagine proceeding like this for all our trips, it might be a good thing to do now and then. Having said that, I do not know whether such a way of traveling would suit us. So far, we have never rented an apartment before.

Another important issue is the loss of gainful employment that will certainly have its implications. As I have repeatedly mentioned on my blog, my husband and I have always made sure that we do not pay excessive prices for hotels or flights. And it is to be expected that the new situation we are faced with will result in an even higher cost-awareness.

We will see how our travel behavior will change in the time to come, given the new circumstances. Hopefully, I will be wiser in this respect on my next travel update.

Travel year 2023

As I already went into the first quarter of 2023 in my last update, I come right to the first of two big trips we did in 2023.

Bhutan: 9-day private guided tour

We made sure that we had some once in a lifetime trips on our travel program for 2023. You never know what the future has in store for you. Especially if you have a significant transition to another life situation ahead of you in the following year. First of all, we finally managed to do the Bhutan trip we originally had booked for 2020. After lots of postponing because of COVID-19, we were able to tour this Himalayan kingdom in spring 2023.

We did this on the occasion of a 9-day journey arranged by the COMO hotel group. This allowed us to get to know three valleys and both COMO hotels in this country plus a third partner hotel. And we did this with our own private guide, which was great. In case you should be interested in this topic, I have published five posts about Bhutan: travel guide, 9-day itinerary, considerations which luxury hotel brand to choose for a private guided tour, how it is doing this with COMO luxury hotels as well as ideas where to go for a pre- or post-Bhutan stay.

Some short trips in Switzerland and Germany in summer

In summer 2023, we traveled our own backyard. That means we visited some places in Switzerland and the nearby Germany. The start made a weekend trip to Hotel Vitznauerhof in Vitznau where we have stayed several times in the recent past (my blogpost). Again, we came here not only for the pleasant hotel experience by the lake but also for culinary delights. This time, we dined not with the two-star Michelin chef Jeroen Achtien – he left in the meantime. Instead, we tried out the pop-up at the time, Ibiza Food Studios by the Danish Boris Buono. And we liked it!

Our next destination was Germany, precisely Hotel Traube Tonbach in the northern Black Forest. Once more, this was not our first visit here but the third one. For the newest post about this fabulous accommodation, check it out here. My husband and I are great fans of this hotel. You encounter here not only immaculate facilities and an excellent hospitality but also high-end gastronomy (four Michelin stars in total) and beautiful nature surroundings.

Last, we had a stay in the Swiss Alps, in Zermatt exactly. A friend of us celebrated a special birthday here. And we used this opportunity to give a hotel a try that was new to us. It is about The Omnia, which was a true find. Should you be interested, check out the details here. In the past, we also stayed repeated times at another high-end hotel in Zermatt, the Riffelalp Resort (my post). While the former is located in the town of Zermatt, the later is in the mountainside, a perfect choice in case you are looking for a ski-in/ski-out property. Allow me one more remark to Zermatt in summer. We found the resort’s center (Bahnhofstrasse) as much too crowded by tourists. And this was so every time we passed by on our four-day visit.

North Italy & west Switzerland journey: 14-day road trip

In late summer, we ventured to Italy’s north again – after doing so in 2021 already. This time it went to the South Tyrol (two stops) and the Lake Garda area. On the way home, we made a side trip to west Switzerland in order to celebrate a special birthday in our family in Montreux. I made six posts about this journey: a North-Italy & west Switzerland 14-day road trip itinerary, a report on our first hotel in Tirolo close to Merano, and another about our second in the Sarentino valley near Bolzano (both in the South Tyrol). Then I informed about staying at our luxury accommodation on Lake Garda before going into the Michelin fine dining options close by. Finally, I wrote about two Michelin starred dining spots in Montreux.

Chile & Buenos Aires/Argentina: 20-day journey

In November, we made the final big trip of my husband’s last year of employment. In some way, we wanted to mark the end of an era by doing a truly special journey. For this purpose, we chose Chile. And we combined it with Buenos Aires. We did this for the simple reason that it made our flight to Santiago de Chile less expensive! Originally, we found that it would be more desirable to see this awesome city on the occasion of a (later) journey across Argentina. Yet you definitely can visit Buenos Aires more than once!

In the context of pricing, it turned out that we had to spend a small fortune for our Chile trip. This was especially true for one of our hotels in Patagonia and the one we had picked for our Atacama Desert stay. While the latter offered nevertheless worth for money, this was not so at the former. At least we did not have to break the bank for the other lodging – apart from Buenos Aires we also stayed in Santiago de Chile and Valparaiso.

I did write six blogposts about this journey, a non-rushed 20-day itinerary and five reports on staying and dining in style at each of the places we were. This is about two hotels around Torres del Paine, Hotel Awasi in the Atacama Desert, Santiago de Chile, Valparaiso and Buenos Aires.

Madeira: 7-day stay between Christmas and New Year 

For the second time in a row we spent a week between Christmas and New Year in Madeira. My husband and I absolutely fell in love with this beautiful island in the Atlantic Ocean with its mild climate all year round. And we enjoyed balmy days again at this time of the year!

Another plus point in Madeira is also the hotel we have chosen here, and this on three consecutive occasions. It is about Les Suites at the Cliff Bay (my post). It offers not only spacious suites and great hospitality but also value for money.

Travel year 2024

As far as 2024 is concerned, we ventured far in the first half, I already mentioned it. Regarding the second half, we have planned several trips, although we will stay in Europe all the time.

Done that

Sils Maria in Upper Engadine/Switzerland: 6-day winter vacation

This was another repeat trip to a favorite hotel destination of ours, Hotel Waldhaus in Sils Maria in the Upper Engadine near Saint Moritz (my post). Again, we were delighted by this accommodation’s location – towering high above the village of Sils Maria – and its understated luxury.

This time we also tried out a restaurant here that we have not dined at so far, Restaurant Arvenstube. And while we liked the food here it was far too much of it. Next time, we probably stick to the traditional Waldhaus Dining-Room, which might feel a bit old-fashioned, but beautifully old-fashioned.

Short stay in Luzern

And yet this is another repeat hotel destination for us! My mother celebrated a milestone birthday and to celebrate this event we headed to Luzern for a second stay at Montana Art Deco Hotel. This time, we opted for a room category that had received a refurbishment in the meantime, the Deluxe Room Lakeside one. And it did not disappoint with its modern appearance.

Our family also had the birthday lunch onsite, at Restaurant Scala, which has received a touch-up too. Again, we liked what we got food wise. And the service was good as well, a lot of fussing about my mother’s special day.

We used the opportunity to check out the recently opened Mandarin Oriental Palace Luzern. And it is really a beauty! We had a fabulous afternoon tea, actually the best I ever had. In addition, we had a light meal at the MOzern Bar & Brasserie, which was also convincing.

Taiwan: 17-day road trip

A trip to Taiwan had been our our travel bucket list for some time. Friends of us had visited this island twice and had been raving about its vibrant cities and its stunning natural beauties. So, we headed there end of March, beginning of April. And I would say that it was quite a memorable undertaking.

What I only fully realized after the trip was how densely populated Taiwan is (especially on its west side). It was astonishing to witness how so many people live together in such a small space. Of a consequence of that, we and the ones or other Westerner travelers were “in competition” with lots of Taiwanese tourists. Generally, it worked out well – an exception was the mountain village of Jiufen on a weekend – , and we had a great time in Formosa, as this Asian Island was formerly known.

My reporting on Taiwan includes following topics: Some considerations when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip, two itineraries of different lengths – one week and two weeks – , my personal luxury hotel highlight in Taiwan and my favorite fine-dining restaurants here.

North Italy & west Switzerland: 11-day road trip

Our first travel undertaking as an early retired couple lead lead us to Italy once more – after 2023 and 2021. We followed a bit in our footsteps of 2021, but not too much so. Variety is what makes traveling fun for us! The northern Italian region of Piedmont was on our itinerary one more time, yet with different places. It was actually the main focus of this trip. On our return home, we made a side tour to the Vallée de Joux. It is a rugged and unspoiled valley between Swiss Jura Mountain ranges, not far from Lake Geneva. My coverage of this voyage is still in progress – unfortunately not yet so advanced as I would have liked.

Sils Maria in Upper Engadine/Switzerland: 4-night short trip in summer

To celebrate our son’s 30th birthday we headed to Hotel Waldhaus in Sils Maria (see above) one more time, and this in summer. As we spent quite some vacations here when our son was a child – especially in summer – we found that it would be nice to repeat this experience. And after this recent stay, we can confirm that the Waldhaus is not only a perfect winter destination but still more than suitable going to in summer as well.

Ahead of us 

France: 20-day road trip Champagne-Normandy-Brittany-Cognac-Dordogne-Cantal

In our twenties, my husband and I did voyage in France very often. Our western neighboring country was actually our preferred destination for traveling around. When we became parents we stopped doing so. We thought that exploring sights, changing hotels all the time and dining at gourmet restaurants might not be the right thing for a small child. Now seems to be great timing to resume this kind of traveling. However, we want to stay longer at certain places, frequently three nights or so. And instead of seeing various attractions we prefer now walking the area.

We start our journey in the Champagne, which we do not know very well yet. Next is France’s northwest that is no new land for us. After two nights in Honfleur (Normandy) we proceed to Brittany where we lodge at three spots, each for three nights. This is actually the major focus of our trip. We continue towards south to Cognac, where we have never been before. The way back home goes via the Dordogne respectively the Perigord. We voyaged here on an earlier occasion and liked the lovely countryside. As final stop before home we chose the Département Cantal. This region, somewhere halfway between Toulouse and Lyon, is unfamiliar to us.

Short stay in Geneva

As we have dear friends who live partly in Geneva, we have arranged a short stay here. We did so already in the past. It was great fun to visit it with someones at their place of residence who know all the best spots to go.

Greece: 17-day road trip Athens & Peleponnes

Greece is new territory to my husband and me. So far we have avoided it because it appeared too touristy to us. Now we thought it might be the time to reconsider, especially as overseas flights has become very expensive. We visit off-season, end of October, beginning of November. Let us see what comes out of this.

That was it to the latest travel news about Swiss Traveler for 2023 and 2024! We have already made a booking for early 2025. And this is for a destination that occurs quite often in my reporting lately. It is about Madeira.

Madeira again in 2025, a 10-day stay

In contrast to the last two times, we go there not around New Year, but at the beginning of January. As a retired couple, we are more flexible. We do not have to travel when all the others do. And I am excited to learn how this island feels in this season.

The post What was going on in my travel year 2023? And what is about 2024? first appeared on Swiss Traveler

The post What was going on in my travel year 2023? And what is about 2024? appeared first on Swiss Traveler.

Now it is to the details of a two-week Taiwan itinerary. My last post was about a one-week travel plan comprising the island’s north. If you have two weeks at your disposal, then you can also travel Taiwan’s south. Plus, you have the option to build in one more stay in the north. Such a travel plan allows you to take your time and to explore sights in the respective surroundings too. Again, I only included stops that ensure travel in style. That means places where you find options for staying at luxury hotels and dining at (Michelin) gourmet restaurants. Yet – as always – , I only considered establishments offering value for money.

There are six stops in total. Compared to the one-week itinerary that I described in my last post, there are three more. Two are in the south (Kenting National Park and Kaohsiung), one is in the north (a second Taipei stay). Find in the following my Google Map of a 17-day road trip in Taiwan that my husband and I did. It can be shortened to 14 days without any problems:

Overview on my Google Map of our 17-day Taiwan itinerary

As you could see, we started and ended the journey in Taipei with four stops in-between. The first stop was on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then we traveled inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range. We continued towards south to the Kenting National Park. And before returning to Taipei, we had our one and only stay in a big city apart from Taipei, and this in Kaohsiung.

As I already went into the first three stops in my mentioned one-week travel plan, you find in this post about a two-week Taiwan itinerary only explanations to the last three ones (Kenting National Park, Kaohsiung and north Taipei). Again, I start with a short description of the respective town/region. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Finally, I go briefly into each of the high-end hotels we stayed and the (Michelin) fine dining spots we ate.

A 17-day Taiwan round trip with six stops in style

See details to stop 1 – 3 here

4. Kenting National Park (south, 2 nights)

About

The Kenting National Park occupies the entire southern tip of the country. And while Kenting is said to have the best beaches in Taiwan, they are subpar to those of typical beach destinations. Nonetheless, the area boasts a lovely coastal scenery and is well worth a full-day exploring.

Things to do here include: walk in the Sheding Natural Park with its huge coral rocks (volunteers guide you around if you wish), Sail “Nixon” Rock, Taiwan’s southernmost point, Longpan Park (great coastal views)

and Hengchun (old city wall with four ancient gates,

Old Street

with Patisserie Ce Moment).

Hotel: Gloria Manor

This is yet another property that has a connection to the former president Chiang Kai-shek. It used to be one of his presidential guesthouses. And this is easy to understand in light of the picturesque mountain and sea scenery you find here. The hotel is remotely located inside the Kenting National Forest Recreation Area, surrounded by tropical greenery.

Gloria Manor took over the site in 2012. The building convinces with minimalistic design that blends nicely into the natural setting. You find here 60 rooms in a range of categories. Yet it does have to be one with a sea view as this is probably the main attraction of staying here.

Breakfasts are excellent, you can make your choice out of several ones served on a tray.

And you can have it also in the pleasant outdoor area. Mu is the only restaurant on site, find some details below.

Restaurants: Mu Restaurant (at Hotel Gloria Manor)

At Gloria Manor’s Mu Restaurant you get excellent Taiwan cuisine with a modern twist. And the place strictly adheres to the principle “not in season, not on the menu”. The setting is relaxed yet still with an upscale touch. My husband and I dined here on both evenings and liked what we got. Good choices from the à la carte menu were Wonton Soup, Crab Omelet, Fried Rice with Pineapple & Dolphinfish, Mango Pomelo Sago or Baked Pudding.

There is also a set menu (1,680 TWD / 47 SFR/US$).

5. Kaohsiung (south, 3 nights)

About

Kaohsiung is Taiwan’s third most populous city and is home to the island’s largest port. While it long used to be an industrial city, it has been reorienting itself toward tourism as well as art and culture since since the turn of the millennium. This shows in the vast Pier-2 Art Center where former shipping warehouses were turned into shops and cafés. And there are museums, art installations and street art. I for one liked the dynamic vibe of Kaohsiung!

As to more classic sights here, the scenic Lotus Pond in the north of the city is an good place to go. It is known for its 20 temples or so along the shoreline and nearby.

And there is the Confucius Temple too. Another big name attraction in the area is the Fo Guang Shan Monastery, outside of town, which is the largest in all of Taiwan and quite a sight.

Last but not least, we used Kaohsiung for a day trip to Tainan. This is Taiwan’s original capital and still retains a traditional vibe. Go to the city center first (Confucius Temple, Hayashi Departement Store, Snail Alley & Shennong Street, two quaint streets;

then proceed to the Anping District (Anping Fort, Anping Old Street, Anping Treehouse).

Hotel: Silks Club

Silks Club is one kind of a cool, urban hotel, attracting business and leisure travelers alike. It is located in the emerging neighborhood of Qianzhen, opened in 2017. Already the sleek lobby with the reflecting pool of water impresses.

And it continues when it comes to the rooms. The 147 units have an average size of 66 sqm, floor-to-ceiling windows and oversized bathrooms.

The place for breakfast is In Jade Lounge – you get it on a tray plus there is small buffet, and it is a tasty affair.

You can also come here for drinks in the evening. The restaurant, a branch of the Japanese Ukai Tei, is divided into several sub-spots (Teppanyaki, Kaiseki & Grill). Find more info on the former below.

Restaurants: Ukai-tei Teppanyaki (at Silks Club), Marc L³ & Sho

For our Kaohsiung food adventures, my husband and I chose three Michelin dining spots. One even has a Michelin star (Sho), two are on the 50Best Discovery list (Sho & Marc L³).

I start with the “hotel restaurant”, Ukai-tea Teppanyki, where they serve a Wagyu menu (Rump 4,800 TWD, Sirloin 5,800 TWD, Tenderloin 6,500 TWD). We opted for the Sirloin (161 SFR/US$) and could witness quality ingredients being cooked on the iron plate right before our eyes. And we even had a chef who exclusively cooked for the two of us! That was quite an experience, especially when it was up to the preparation of the abalone (from live to death).

Our favorite dinner in Kaoshiung and probably on our whole Taiwan trip was the one at Marc L³. The three L’s stand for Live x Liberal x Limitless. Reservations here are difficult to get, and we had to pay our meal in advance (which was not a no-brainer to arrange). Yet, once seated at the counter (9 seats only), we were in for culinary magic! Unique French fare was prepared in front of us, and this as eight-course menu (3,960 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) in a relaxed ambiance.

And the chef is such a nice guy too, communicative, approachable and amiable! What a great evening we had here!

Dining at Sho, an outpost of the Tokyo famed Den Restaurant, was a epicurean highlight as well. We were treated to an exquisite Japanese meal with creative touches. Quite in contrast to Marc L³, it took place in a somewhat chilly ambiance. The place – a counter with 14 seats – had an almost clinical appearance. Notwithstanding that, we truly enjoyed the tasting menu (3,500 TWD + rice upgrade 700 TWD / 119 SFR/US$). And if you are wondering about the rice upgrade, go for it! It is a traditional rice dish cooked in an iron pot called a kama, once with Wagyu and the other time with scallops.

6. Taipei (Beitou District, north of the center, 3 nights)

About

Our second stay in Tapei was in Beitou, the capital’s most northern district. While it is not too far away from Taipei’s center (half an hour by MRT), it has a less urban feel. The hilly area is known for its hot springs and is close to beautiful nature.

We had planned to explore Taiwan’s north from Beitou. Yet we only managed to do one such day trip because of not so good weather. And this was to Jiufen,

a seaside town in the lush mountains northeast of Taipei (book a Taiwan tea time at Jiufen Artist Teahouse, expensive yet worthwhile;

escape the crowds by hiking the Jinguashi Aqueduct Trail). We left out the second one to Yangmingshan National Park on Taipei’s northern fringe. Instead, we headed to central Taipei once again, to the University District. And it was lively, even on a Sunday. And do not miss the sights in Beitou: Thermal Valley, Puji Temple,

Beitou Library, Xinbeitou Historic Station.

Hotel: Grand View Resort Beitou

While Beitou is not the first address for first timers to Taipei seeking to explore the city to the fullest, it was ideal for our purposes. Having already done the capital’s major sights, we longed for a quiet place to spend our last few days in Taiwan. Staying here is the best of both worlds: being in relative proximity to Taipei’s center and at the same surrounded by nature.

Grand View Resort Beitou is the most luxurious among the many hot-spring hotels that make use of the sulfurous hot-spring water that bubbles from the ground. The relatively large and modern property (opened in 2011) stands high on a slope with beautiful views of Beitou and beyond.

All the 66 guest rooms are spacious and come with hot-spring bathrooms, allowing a private soaking experience. I think the accommodations could use a little touch up, especially the wet area (the moisture from the hot springs does not help).

Breakfasts are really good here, served on a tray. And they even offered another variety on our third day. There are three restaurants, from which we tried out two (we did not eat at Aqua Deck with light continental food). Find more details in the next section.

Restaurants: Chinese Cuisine & C’est Bon (both at Hotel Grand View Resort)

We had dinner every evening at Hotel Grand View Resort Beitou. As I had read good things about the Chinese Cuisine – it is Michelin listed – , we went there twice.

One evening, we tried out the French place, C’est Bon.

While both offered fine food, we found C’est Bon better. We had a lovely dinner here indulging in immaculately prepared French food with a Taiwanese twist. Out of the four set menus, we ordered the one with Boston Lobster (3,080 TWD / 87 SFR/USD$), and we relished it.

As to the Chinese place, we had a not so good dining experience on our first evening. Whereas the food was good (we had opted for à la carte), service and setting were less so. Everything was better on our second dinner – we had the Vegetarian Set Menu (2,280 TWD / 64 SFR/US$). Yet C’est Bon has our love!

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

The start made some considerations to bear in mind when planning a (luxury) Taiwan trip (my post), followed by a proposal for one-week itinerary here. This is actually the first part of the journey my husband and I did on this island. It includes the three major travel highlights in this country, Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. As luxury traveler and  fine dining lover, I also give recommendations as to where to stay and dine in style. In addition, I go into what to do in all theses places, plus some ideas for side trips. In this very post, you get the same thing, yet for the second part of our trip. Taken together, you have info on our original 17-day itinerary (that you can shorten to a 2-week Taiwan itinerary). Next on my blog, you will find out about my personal hotel and restaurant highlights in Taiwan in some more details.

Date of stay: April 2024

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While my last post went into general considerations to make when planning a Taiwan trip, this one is about a concrete one-week itinerary. When my husband and I toured beautiful Formosa – as it was called by its discoverers – , we actually had 17 days at our disposal (for the whole island). Yet, you can shorten the journey to one week (north only). This still allows you to see the island’s three major highlights – Taipei, Taroko Gorge and Sun Moon Lake. And my one-week proposal is about a Taiwan trip in style, meaning staying in luxury hotels and dining in (Michelin) gourmet restaurants (if available).

Before coming to the details of the three individual stops, here my Google Map of this one-week Taiwan trip.

Overview on my Google Map of a 1-week Taiwan itinerary

No Taiwan trip is complete without exploring its capital of Taipei. While I put it as first destination on my Google Map, you can of course also do it at the end of the journey. The second stop is on the Island’s northeast, at the Taroko Gorge near the seaside town of Hualien. Then you travel inland to Sun Moon Lake in the foothills of the Central Mountain Range before returning to Taipei.

I start with a short description of the respective place. Then I let you know what to do here in a few sentences. Last but not least, I go briefly into a high-end hotel and some nearby (Michelin) fine dining spots.

A 1-week Taiwan round trip with three stops in style

1. Taipei (Songshan District, near the city center, 3 nights)

About

Taipei is a must for every Taiwan traveler. You find here a fascinating mix of Chinese, Japanese, indigenous and western influences. And although it is a deeply urban place, nature is never too far away. So, it is the ideal starting and/or ending point for your island exploring.

When it comes to activities, Taipei 101 for a view of the city and the Elephant Mountain for a view of Taipei 101 are musts for first timers to Taipei. Also the political Taipei around the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall has to be on every traveler’s agenda.

Further things to do are the Dihua Old Street,

The Dalongdong Baoan Temple

and the nearby Confucius Temple.

Hotel: Mandarin Oriental Taipei

Before setting off on our Taiwan round trip, we lodged at the Mandarin Oriental in the Songshan District. This business district (financial industry) is an okay location for exploring Taipei, however not the most ideal one. Most sights are in the following districts: Zhongzheng, Wanhua, Datong, Xinyi and Da’an. And Songshan is slightly too far north and east compared to the before mentioned ones. Yet, you are close to a MRT station and once on the subway, you get everywhere quickly enough.

As to the hotel, it is opulent indeed. While being a newly built complex (opened in 2014 together with THE ARCADE, a shopping center), it is reminiscent of Medieval European architecture in an eclectic style.

The 303 guest rooms are more spacious than at its competitors. They are classically furnished with contemporary touches and boast generous marbled bathrooms.

And you get a fabulous breakfast at Café Un Deux Trois, a modern buffet style restaurant. Service is as excellent as you might expect it with this prestigious hotel group. And rates are affordable enough, in contrast to many other MO hotels in Europe.

Restaurants: Holt & Hosu

UPDATE: Restaurant Holt’s website is no longer available

We did not have dinner at Mandarin Oriental Taipei – except some small bites in the M.O. Bar after a late arrival on our first day in Taiwan (which were good).

Instead we had decided on two Michelin listed restaurants in the adjacent neighborhood.

Holt is a one-star Michelin restaurant offering exquisite contemporary European food. On our evening, they still served creations by Canadian chef Jeffery Downs, although he had already left for good in the direction of his home country. We were told that they are now in a rebranding process.

The tasting menu we got (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) was one of the trip’s highlight food wise delivering very high quality.

While Holt was really great yet very European, we were keen on trying food prepared in a more Taiwanese way. So, we had opted for Hosu, a modern Taiwanese dining spot, which is Michelin listed. And we were delighted by this cute little place whose name means “Good Island”. They served a tasting menu (2,880 TWD / 81 SFR/US$) that surprised at every turn.

2. Taroko Gorge (northeast, 2-3 days)

Currently largely closed due to earthquake in April 2024!

About

Taroko Gorge is one of Taiwan’s top scenic attractions. It is a steep valley created by the Liwu river and makes part of the Taroko National Park. The first 18 km/11 mi of Highway 8, coming from Taiwan’s east coast, are what is known as Taroko Gorge. The thing to do here are hikes of various lengths. Usually one full day is enough to get quite a good insight. My husband and I stayed three nights here, and this right inside the gorge.

As to actual things to do, be advised that usually one or more sights or trails are closed (it is a geologically active site). So, check what is open before you go. We did the following activities (on one full day): Swallow Grotto (short walk), Buluowan Suspension Bridge (crossing the bridge only), Eternal Spring Shrine Trial (closed, you could only walk to the first Shrine), Baiyang Trail to Water Curtain Cave (we did not go in, one and a half hour),

Lushui Trail (only a short part, closed after Small Cave).

The second day, we made a day trip to the Hualien area and a bit more in the south direction. It lead us along the east coast to Qixingtan Beach, Qizingtan (quaint seaside town), Baqi Viewpoint (nice),

Jiqi Beach, Fengbin Skywalk (closed) and Xin She Rice Terraces. Then we returned inland via the towns of Guangfu, Fenglin and Shoufeng. Here we made a side trip to Liyu Lake before going back to the Taroko Gorge.

Hotel: Silks Place Taroko

Closed until mid 2024 due to earthquake in April 2024!

As announced, the hotel is located within the Taroko Gorge. Precisely, it is in Tianxiang, a small village at the top of the gorge, about one hour from Hualien City. If you value the best possible situation for exploring the Taroko Gorge, then you are right here. The property used to be an official government guest house under the regime of president Chiang Kai-shek. In 2010, it opened after a renovation as Silks Place Taroko.

While the hotel’s exteriors are not necessarily a feast for the eyes, its interiors are nice, kept in a contemporary style. The 160 rooms are split over two floors, the Retreat Floor and Resort Floor. The former are more luxurious and offer access to the top floor Retreat Lounge where complimentary snacks and drinks are served all day.

As a Retreat Floor guest, you can have breakfast at either the Wellesley Buffet or the Retreat Lounge (served on a tray). For dinner, you can choose between the mentioned Wellesley Buffet or the Chinese Restaurant. Details to both of them follow in the next section.

Restaurants: Mei Yuan & Wellesley Buffet (both at Hotel Silks Place Resort)

As to the food at Hotel Silks Place Taroko, it was not the best we experienced on our Taiwan trip yet still decent enough. We had opted to be on half board and had to choose where we wanted to have dinner twice. As we do not like buffet restaurants, we went to the Chinese restaurant Mei Yuan on two evenings. And we had Shabu Shabu Hot Pot both times, yet we did not mind. This because it was prepared with good quality ingredients (which are boiled in a pot with soup in front of you).

When it comes to the Wellesley Buffet, we were quite a bit underwhelmed by the experience. Again, the quality of food was high and there was a wide range of culinary options. And the staff ensured that the buffet was kept immaculately.

Yet, it was like being in a bee house, with guests buzzing around and voices overlapping in every direction. It was not like something I expected from a five-star property.

3. Sun Moon Lake (center, 2-3 days)

About

Sun Moon Lake, at the foothills of the Central Mountain Range, is the island’s largest body of water. It is at an altitude of 762 m/2,500 ft and a hugely popular destination. And it is indeed a beautiful scenic view.

There are two lakeside towns, Shuishe village (more touristy) and Ita Thao (home of the Thao aboriginal tribe).

If you wonder what to do here, you can go boating, hiking, cycling and stand-up paddle boarding. However, swimming is not allowed (except at the annual mass swim). As to sights, visit the Wenwu Temple (view from the grounds above it towards the lake is splendid),

walk up to Ci En Pagoda (climb up to the top of it for the view) and go to the Antique Assam Tea Farm (self-guided tour, café & shop).

In case you have two full days in Sun Moon Lake as we had, consider a day trip to the Alishan High Mountain tea fields. Here Taiwan’s most famous tea (Oolong) grows. A good place to spend  a day is the small mountain village of Shizhuo. You can make the most beautiful hikes on the Shizhuo Trails System,

buy tea at the Lin Yuan Tea Factory (oldest tea grower in the area) and make a side trip to another village, Fenqihu (old street).

Hotel: The Lalu Sun Moon Lake

This is yet a former official government guest house of president Chiang Kai-shek. After extensive renovations, it was opened as a luxury hotel in 2002. And this is quite a property! It occupies a peninsula next to the Shuishe village. The hotel spans three buildings that blend harmoniously with the surrounding forested hillside. You have fantastic lake views from almost everywhere at the hotel. It is of a timeless Zen-like design.

All the 96 rooms except some stand-alone villas face the lake

and are exceptionally roomy.

Breakfast is served in the Oriental Brasserie and consists of a huge buffet with a diverse food offer, although it is not so geared towards western tastes. In terms of dining, five restaurants are at your disposal, although some only cater for room guests and member. Find out more about how it is dining at their two flagship dining-spots below.

Restaurants: The Lake View Chinese Restaurant, The Japanese Restaurant (both at The Lala) & KEN CAN by Ken Chan (at Hotel Fleur de Chine)

Both, the Lake View Chinese Restaurant and The Japanese Restaurant, were not as good as I had hoped for. While both offered good food, other aspects were not that satisfying. As far as the Chinese place (à la carte) is concerned, neither the banquet hall-like setting nor the service – we were poorly advised – were persuasive.

However, the Japanese spot (set menu at 3,600 TWD / 101 SFR/US$ with U.S. beef fillet) has an attractive setting (no view). When it comes to service, it was not much better than its Chinese counterpart (not many explanations to the food).

The good news in the Sun Moon Lake area is that there is an excellent gourmet restaurant around at the competitor hotel of Fleur de Chine. It is about KEN CAN by Ken Chan.

It is the second spot of this three-star Michelin chef at Hotel Palais de Chine in Taipei. If you are a foodie and have only one evening in the area, then dine here! We were delighted by the creative Cantonese set menu (3,980 TWD / 112 SFR/US$) as well as the courteous and informative service.

Looking back and ahead on my Taiwan journey

While this post went into a one-week itinerary of a Taiwan trip in style, the next is dedicated to a two-week one. Whereas the former only goes to the island’s north – yet covers the country’s three major highlights – , the second brings you to whole Taiwan. This longer journey has the same stops as the before mentioned Taiwan one-week itinerary plus three more. I started my reporting on this island with some considerations to make when planning a luxury trip to this island (my post). Two more blogposts to follow will highlight my personal highlights in terms of high-end lodging and (Michelin) fine dining restaurants.

Date of stay: April 2024

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Basel is known – amongst other things – for its proximity to the two neighboring countries of Germany and France. And just as Switzerland’s biggest city of Zurich, it has a good offer of fine-dining outlets. Whereas Zurich’s high-end culinary scene is very dynamic – see my post about it -, Basel is a bit more modest in this context. However, that does not mean it is not worth visiting as a foodie. Quite the opposite, it boasts one of only four three-star Michelin spots existing in Switzerland. Furthermore, it also has two two-star Michelin establishments. One of them was already the subject of an earlier post about Basel’s fine-dining scene. I will cover the other and the three-star spot in the sections to follow. And my overview on best fine-dining restaurants in Basel will also include one from abroad, which fits this city as meeting place for three countries.

I begin with the highflier here, the mentioned three-star Michelin place before coming to the two-star and the one-star establishments.

1. Restaurant Cheval Blanc by Peter Knogl at Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois

three-star Michelin restaurant featuring fantastic classic French cuisine with a twist in a splendid historical hotel dining-room by the water

This classic French high-end restaurant was for me the last on the list of all the three-star Michelin places in my home country. The reason for this was probably the fact that it is not considered as modern. And I am a big fan of contemporary cuisine. Yet, in hindsight I have to say this should not have hindered me so long. That is because everything was top-notch at my dinner at Cheval Blanc. The chef here, Peter Knogl, has been working here since 2007.

And since day one, he celebrates French haute cuisine, yet influenced by Mediterranean and Asian influences.

The chef is considered as king of sauces, and it really is exceptional what he accomplishes in this field. Each and every sauce was perfect, bursting with flavor and wonderfully balanced. But everything was of the highest standard, and this made by first rate produce and presented in a pleasantly reduced way.

And the setting is beautiful, at Basel’s most upscale luxury hotel – Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois – just by the river Rhine.

The 300 year old dining room (30 seats) is splendid. It is kept in a classical and somewhat opulent style, with intricate chandeliers and fine antiques.

And to my delight, the restaurant manager (Giuseppe Giliberti), although dressed in a black tailcoat, was not stiff at all but showed a good mixture of professionalism and relaxedness.

The dinner I had with my husband and friends at Cheval Blanc was utterly enjoyable. It was full of culinary highlights, accompanied by an immaculate service performance and the most glorious setting. This level of quality along with the highest possible rating (three Michelin stars, 19 point Gault Millau) comes with a price. Notwithstanding, it is still far from being astronomically expensive. On offer is a sole menu, either in the complete version (six courses for 320 SFR/US$) or in five courses (285 SFR/US$).

2. Restaurant Roots

two-star Michelin dining spot with excellent modern cuisine in relaxed ambiance a bit away from the city center at the river (with some service issues)

Our party of four enjoyed excellent modern food at Roots, and this in a chic contemporary setting.

Unfortunately, the dinner was overshadowed by an underwhelming service performance. Right after the opening we entered the premises and were welcomed with the words: Do you have a reservation? Of course we had one, otherwise you get no table at a two-star Michelin restaurant on a Saturday evening. And this was only the start to several service hiccups. It followed insufficient advice on Champagne selection, inflexible dining choices (see below) and not refilling our drinks. While we are at it, everything as to service was immaculate when related to food issues. The staff was obviously drilled to ensure that the cutlery was set when the chefs came to the table with their creations. They did this with every course, which was informative and entertaining at the same time.

Food wise, you can decide on six, seven, nine or ten courses (178/189/208/219 SFR/US$). The server let our party of four know that six courses involve following dishes: twice seafood, once vegetables, twice meat and once dessert. The seventh course would be a dessert, the eighth something with truffle, the ninth langoustine and the tenth cheese. When we asked whether we could have the truffle dish instead of the second dessert as seventh course, it was rejected. And this without giving an understandable reason. Be it as it may, the food we got was really remarkable. The cuisine of the young chef, Pascal Steffen, is innovative and often vegetable-based.

He started here in 2017, at the “Rhypark”, a convention center by the river Rhine a bit away from the city center.

The food is worth two Michelin stars (Roots got its second end of 2022), but this is not enough to create a memorable dinner experience. As a diner at a highly decorated venue (18 points Gault Millau) you certainly may expect a higher standard of service.

3. Restaurant La Table de l’Auberge at Auberge Saint-Laurent in Sierentz/Alsace (France)

well-made modern and traditional cuisine at historical coaching inn in nearby France with an one-star Michelin award

I mentioned it, Basel is located in the tri-border area of France, Germany and Switzerland. And because of that it is common that locals also go abroad for eating out. That is exactly what a dear friend from Basel and I did on a cloudy winter day when heading for Sierentz in the Alsace (France). You get here in less than 20 minutes by car. It is also possible to take the train (18 minute-ride plus 8-minute walk). A lovely 18th century coaching inn awaits you here in rural surroundings. The well-preserved Auberge Saint-Laurent oozes lots of traditional charm. And it offers – apart from ten guest rooms – two Michelin listed restaurants.

On our occasion, we were on our way to the one-star Michelin Restaurant La Table de l’Auberge (16 points Gault Millau). Yet – as my friend told me – the more relaxed Winstub À Côté (Bib Gourmand) is also a good choice. The property has been family-owned since 1982 by the Arbeit family. In 2010, the second generation took over. Chef Laurent, who continues his father’s work, trained in the kitchens of some big-name chefs (Haeberlin and Ducasse). He does this in a differentiated manner. Some traditional dishes that made the house famous such as the duck foie gras with sauerkraut jam are unchanged on the menu.

Furthermore, he revisits others classics and reinvents them in a more contemporary way. Plus, he does his own modern creations. And he was able to retain the Michelin star that his father had earned more than twenty years ago.

We arrived to find a newly refurbished dining room. It now has a fresh look yet without denying its classical origins.

In terms of food, you can choose between an à la carte offer and three menus. As to the former, starters are from 28 to 40 €, mains from 35 to 48 € and desserts from 15 to 20 €. Menu wise, there are three options: the classic “Gourmet” (62 €), the choice menu “Tout à votre Choix” (95 €) – both with foie gras – and the surprise menu “Surprises et Gourmandises” (125 €). My friend and I opted for the middle – with foie gras of course. And we liked what we got. For dessert, I requested a change as I wanted to try the “Tout petit vacherin glacé”. That was no problem, and it was heavenly, although not exactly “tout petit”. Quite the opposite, it was much too big – just as the foie gras. Otherwise, it was an enjoyable meal with a friendly and reserved but not stiff service.

Looking back as to dining in style in Switzerland

In case you are not only interested in best fine dining restaurants in Basel but in Zurich too, then check out my two former posts. One is about great options to dine in style in Zurich city, and this divided in casual places (four options) and sophisticated ones (3 spots). Furthermore, I also did an overview of recommended fine dining restaurants in the Zurich area, i.e. outside of the city. This is about three dining spots, all of them Michelin starred respectively by a Michelin star chef.

Date of visits: December 2023 – January 2024

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